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Pillar Bedding


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Im not sure if I qualify in this forum and this is NOT intended to be a, "this is how to do it and my way is the ONLY way"

 

Neither is it intended to be a step by step guide.

 

Merely a series of images showing the various steps.

 

 

This is a Tikka action by the way, the principle for other actions is the same although application different (for sandwiched recoil lugs)

 

 

You want to do it yourself, work it out yourself (in the nicest possible way)

 

:):):)

 

Preparing stock for pillars and bedding compound

 

DSCN3569_zps0d43134b.jpg

 

DSCN3570_zps87abbfb7.jpg

 

DSCN3571_zpsb33e047b.jpg

 

DSCN3583_zps11d66f54.jpg

 

Preparing pillars and new lug - pillars not cut to length in some of images

 

DSCN3576_zps8e28e297.jpg

 

DSCN3578_zpsc95d2461.jpg

 

DSCN3573_zpse3179a3f.jpg

 

 

Action prepared for compound

 

 

DSCN3582_zpsde7d855d.jpg

 

 

Mixed Devcon and applied to stock and action

 

DSCN3584_zpsd1d002d8.jpg

 

DSCN3586_zpsf4fbc7e1.jpg

 

DSCN3588_zps2e6de8ab.jpg

 

DSCN3590_zpsbe0d6929.jpg

 

 

 

Two parts together

 

DSCN3595_zps3d3caa66.jpg

 

 

Clean up and ready to cure

 

DSCN3597_zpsb872b81f.jpg

 

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24 hr later

 

DSCN3602_zps2e96b657.jpg

 

Clean up

 

DSCN3608_zps55a7e066.jpg

 

 

Bottom metal same process

 

DSCN3606_zps635945e8.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

Finished

 

DSCN3611_zps9c3ac075.jpg

 

DSCN3612_zps5fa670c3.jpg

 

DSCN3613_zps121c3296.jpg

 

DSCN3614_zps5245796d.jpg

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Ronin,

 

Nice neat job and an interesting way of modifying the original floating recoil lug, out of curiosity do you not get any flow on the epoxy by having the job upside down as it's curing?

 

Mike

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Ronin,

 

Nice neat job and an interesting way of modifying the original floating recoil lug, out of curiosity do you not get any flow on the epoxy by having the job upside down as it's curing?

 

Mike

 

 

Basically, no, the excess "squeezes" out when the action and stock are compressed together.

 

Once the overspill is cleaned up, there is no other flow, the Devcon is viscous enough not to move, don't forget as well that with the stock upside down there are very few points that it could flow out of anyway.

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Ronin,

 

Do you think a rifle bedded in such a manner is just as stable as a synthetic stock i.e. no point of impact changes with dampness, temp etc (assuming the barrel is free floated with a decent amount of clearence in the channel)

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Its more stable than a synthetic stock as the action and bottom metal sit bettween pillars, which do not crush or offer any "give" - any stock even the AICS respond to bedding.

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Andy, what do you use to trim up the leading edge of the devcon as it pushes under the barrel? do you do it on the mill or use a dremmel or something??

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My take on the same gun.

 

tikkabedding1_zpse1be36e9.jpg

 

tikkabedding2_zps37787497.jpg

 

Stock just off the mill and now for some hand finishing, then internal paint.

 

tikkalug_zps4ade90f1.jpg

 

I prefer to make a lug with a section that sits inside the stocks recoil socket.

 

I also fit my Pillars and devcon them in first. This allows removal of material from everywhere else in the certain knowledge that the action is only touching the pillar tops during bedding, and can be confidently pulled down onto the tops of them with bedding wrenches.

 

Everyone has their pet methods I guess.

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Andy, what do you use to trim up the leading edge of the devcon as it pushes under the barrel? do you do it on the mill or use a dremmel or something??

 

 

Clean that up on the mill

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I like your new lug dave, must take a while to mill out the solid bar, or do you use a saw and machine ?

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Turned the O/D down in the lathe then milled it all Andy. Then ran a ball end mill across the bottom to rough it up for the bedding to bite in , you can just make it out in the pic I think.

 

Phil, If you are going to bed it, then you will need to make a very large pillar [just like the ones Andy and I have used here on your 10/22. There is no other way of having a flat base/point to bed from in a 10/22 because its a single fixing screw.

 

You are picking a difficult job there.

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Thanks Dave for the advice. This Kidd action has a rear lug so it has 2 bolts on the action.Just got to mill out the stock for the lug. I just hope I don't mess it up. :-)

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  • 3 months later...

Just reviving this thread, Im about to bed my Mcmillan and 595 but the rear pillar is going to be tight to drillout to 12mm to suit the pillar. Its 8mm as standard and Ive got 2.9mm of meat between the hole and the inlet. When I drill it out its going to leave less than a mmm :o

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another question. Ive done the bedding and its gone great. There is one small patch a couple of mil by about 10 mm that I didnt add enough Devcon. If you rough slightly and apply more does it bond okay and then sand back?

Its purely cosmetic but while Im doing it might as well be worth doing.

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Leave it alone.

 

Why bother filling it if its just cosmetic - the next one you do will be better!

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  • 3 years later...

Hi,

I'm about to bed my Tikka m558 (same action design as the Tikka m595).

The pictures will not show due to 3rd party hosting @ photobucket. Is it possible to get a link to the gallery just for pictorial reference and inspiration?

/K

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