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andybrock

NV Project

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Here it goes. Some pics of my NV set up%3ca%20href=iphone030.jpg">

So far so good, the 2 lamps are switched independantly of each other, so you can lamp normally then switch to IR when you spot a fox or just use it on IR all the time. Need to fit a leisure battery to stop flattening main battery[ its a nightmare when that happens at 3 am in the middle of no where].%3ca%20href=iphone032.jpg">

 

 

 

This is 7 inch monitor to view the proceedings. Next thing to do is put some sort of recording device to record the action, Ill try and put some viewing pics up now ive worked out the pics thing

 

 

Bri

 

Where did you get your box from?

 

I am having trouble sourcing a suitably sized waterproof enclosure, especially as you have to able to open it up easily to turn the Ranger on and off.

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Bri

 

Where did you get your box from?

 

I am having trouble sourcing a suitably sized waterproof enclosure, especially as you have to able to open it up easily to turn the Ranger on and off.

 

 

CPC its on internet or at preston. I put a piano hindge and latches on it.

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CPC its on internet or at preston. I put a piano hindge and latches on it.

 

 

Thanks.

 

I have just bought a remote controlled power pan tilt head on Ebay and I am now planning on changing my setup from a Lightforce remote handle to full remote control and I thought I might as well put the Ranger in a box at the same time.

 

How did you mount the Ranger inside the box itself?

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Thanks.

 

I have just bought a remote controlled power pan tilt head on Ebay and I am now planning on changing my setup from a Lightforce remote handle to full remote control and I thought I might as well put the Ranger in a box at the same time.

 

How did you mount the Ranger inside the box itself?

 

 

Just with some all round band [ copper with plastic coating with holes in] available from any electrical wholesalers or cpc. Put some long M4 nuts and bolts through allround band and the box and use length to tension. I put some foam under it to take a bit of vibration out and to level it up [try pipe lagging].

Let me know how you get on with the motorised set up cause thats my next project. Just a thought, when motorised set up is on roof and your driving round make sure the wind resistance does force the set up back and break the gearing or motor. Just a thought

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Getting there.........

 

I've now got hold of 2 pairs of screens... a pair of Clarion VMA5092's with chopped cables and a pair of Centurions with a wiring loom but I'm now needing a bit of guidance as to how to power these up.................

 

The Clarions have a Red, a Yellow and a Black plus a slightly larger co-ax type black which I'm guessing is for the IR remote from the user manual I'd googled. There are no other sockets on the unit.

the info I've found for other screens suggests the yellow is the power, borne out by the power lead in the Centurion set.

 

I've spoken to Clarion Tech Support and their Repairs bods and they haven't anything to tell me what the colours represent - they do have some units in stock but won't open them up to do a quick circuit test between the board and the socket pins to work out which one's are which (Fair enough)

 

Any suggestions as to what the wires represent gratefully received (Lol! No I won't be offended if the bin is suggested).

 

The Centurions are probably a better prospect as they came with a wiring loom but I think there's a 'handbrake on' switch in the little black box in the power lead shown in the pic - presumably I can either short the red to an earth to create the circuit or take the box out completely and just have the yellow and black for power.

 

Again, guidance gratefully received.

 

Many thanks

 

Fizz

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Just with some all round band [ copper with plastic coating with holes in] available from any electrical wholesalers or cpc. Put some long M4 nuts and bolts through allround band and the box and use length to tension. I put some foam under it to take a bit of vibration out and to level it up [try pipe lagging].

Let me know how you get on with the motorised set up cause thats my next project. Just a thought, when motorised set up is on roof and your driving round make sure the wind resistance does force the set up back and break the gearing or motor. Just a thought

 

 

Good point about the wind resistance, I am planning on making the whole setup easily removeable, by bolting a tripod head to the roof and then mounting the pan tilt on top of that. I don't need two lamps, so I am going to bolt my 170 straight on top of the box.

 

We use an old Discovery with a roof hatch cut out in the back to shoot out of, you can't go very fast with it open or it blows shut anyway so that should keep the speed down and I will remove the whole lot when we have finished shooting before driving home. The head I have bought comes with 2 remotes, one wired and one wireless IR, the wired one will come through the roof for the driver, then the shooter in the back can use the wireless one.

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Getting there.........

 

I've now got hold of 2 pairs of screens... a pair of Clarion VMA5092's with chopped cables and a pair of Centurions with a wiring loom but I'm now needing a bit of guidance as to how to power these up.................

 

The Clarions have a Red, a Yellow and a Black plus a slightly larger co-ax type black which I'm guessing is for the IR remote from the user manual I'd googled. There are no other sockets on the unit.

the info I've found for other screens suggests the yellow is the power, borne out by the power lead in the Centurion set.

 

I've spoken to Clarion Tech Support and their Repairs bods and they haven't anything to tell me what the colours represent - they do have some units in stock but won't open them up to do a quick circuit test between the board and the socket pins to work out which one's are which (Fair enough)

 

Any suggestions as to what the wires represent gratefully received (Lol! No I won't be offended if the bin is suggested).

 

The Centurions are probably a better prospect as they came with a wiring loom but I think there's a 'handbrake on' switch in the little black box in the power lead shown in the pic - presumably I can either short the red to an earth to create the circuit or take the box out completely and just have the yellow and black for power.

 

Again, guidance gratefully received.

 

Many thanks

 

Fizz

 

 

 

 

 

I have no direct experience of these but normally with car stereo electrics Red = Ignition live, Yellow = Perm live, Black = Ground

 

Ypu are correct about the handbrake switch, just short it out and it should be fine.

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Getting there.........

 

I've now got hold of 2 pairs of screens... a pair of Clarion VMA5092's with chopped cables and a pair of Centurions with a wiring loom but I'm now needing a bit of guidance as to how to power these up.................

 

The Clarions have a Red, a Yellow and a Black plus a slightly larger co-ax type black which I'm guessing is for the IR remote from the user manual I'd googled. There are no other sockets on the unit.

the info I've found for other screens suggests the yellow is the power, borne out by the power lead in the Centurion set.

 

I've spoken to Clarion Tech Support and their Repairs bods and they haven't anything to tell me what the colours represent - they do have some units in stock but won't open them up to do a quick circuit test between the board and the socket pins to work out which one's are which (Fair enough)

 

Any suggestions as to what the wires represent gratefully received (Lol! No I won't be offended if the bin is suggested).

 

The Centurions are probably a better prospect as they came with a wiring loom but I think there's a 'handbrake on' switch in the little black box in the power lead shown in the pic - presumably I can either short the red to an earth to create the circuit or take the box out completely and just have the yellow and black for power.

 

Again, guidance gratefully received.

 

Many thanks

 

Fizz

 

 

 

Fizz,

 

Yes all you need is yellow (video phono) this would go to your Ranger or camera and then the black cable to power the screen.

 

For what you will be using it for you won't need the red and white connectors or the 3.5 mm jack plug.

 

Andy

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Hi Anthony,

Thanks for the reply, I didn't get a result shorting the red to black in the multiplug so I pulled the little black box apart to find a transformer coil and a diode(?) marked 25v. with the red and yellow soldered in the same track and guess that this means the player would be powered in parallel with the screens.

 

A quick circuit test proved no power getting that far anyway so I tried another cig lighter lead with a different sized centre pin - eureka! They work with the Ranger Pros as the feed.

 

Good stuff!

 

Many thanks

 

atb

FBW

(Any clues on the Clarions gratefully still received - trip to Halfords Tech guys in the offing)

 

Edit: And subsequent thanks to Andy.....

 

Off to the fishing tackle shop to research the octoplus stuff, pair of Derwent IR LEDS on the way too from this guy on t'bay

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Derwent-Uniflood-20-850-LED-LAMP-CCTV-Used-/130552497380?pt=UK_CCTV&hash=item1e658904e4#ht_582wt_1141

 

I won the previous one for the start price £29 and he'd already agreed to sell me a second at the winning price, postage was upped to £14.99 to cover both. He's a bit cagey if you email and won't actually do a buy it now, in fact I just never got an answer to the question and had to wait for the auction to end. Also asked if it could be collected but that was declined too...... you'd have thought he didn't really want to sell them! Lol!

 

So, they'll hopefully do until the pukka Bosch units come along.

 

atb

Fizz

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Hi All, what a small world it is!! Camo304 has put a link up to my thread running on the BBS, but I thought I would sign up here and join in this discussion.

 

My current setup is a yukon ranger with 2 Bosch LED illuminators mounted on a remote pan and tilt head linked to two 7" monitors. (one for the shooter and one for the driver)

 

Gator_30-06-11_0069.jpg

 

The yukon ranger has now been replaced by 4 CCTV cameras wich run through a quad splitter giving me 360 deg vision without the need to pan

 

Here is a recent test I have done with some different IR illuminators

 

 

To save you all a lot of stress deciding which CCTV cameras to buy just make sure it has a Sony 1/3 Super HAD 11 chip in it and it is IR sensitive and you won't be dissapointed

that bosch illuminator looks outstanding compared to the rest.

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Has anyone expanded there mobile nv set up recently. I've bought a new vehicle with no sunroof so need a remote system. Any ideas

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Am looking for a set up like this to help a friend out, who is limited health wise - vehicle observation would be perfect.

 

Is the Ranger still the best option to go with either with laser or filtered lamp?

 

Any means of being able to turn whole power supply on from the vehicle so that batteries don't discharge so quickly?

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Am looking for a set up like this to help a friend out, who is limited health wise - vehicle observation would be perfect.

Is the Ranger still the best option to go with either with laser or filtered lamp?

Any means of being able to turn whole power supply on from the vehicle so that batteries don't discharge so quickly?

No there isnt a way turn turn the ranger on and off from inside the vehicle in its standard format although I'm sure someone with electrical skills could modify the switch.

 

You can run the ranger off a 12v system so you can keep it switched on which is what I did as it cut down on weight.

 

The Bresser I ended up using ran off 2x AA batteries which last for ages.

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Am looking for a set up like this to help a friend out, who is limited health wise - vehicle observation would be perfect.

Is the Ranger still the best option to go with either with laser or filtered lamp?

Any means of being able to turn whole power supply on from the vehicle so that batteries don't discharge so quickly?

I had the exact setup that would of suited Tony's neededs perfectly Grouse but sold the bits off about a year ago as it barley got used as prefer going on foot, was excellent over bait. I still have the most of the wiring, tv screen and Ir filter for striker lamp which he is more than welcome to have. If you want me to make a fresh one up it's no problem mate. I had it setup on a lightforce remote handle with a bracket that fitted in side the window of a Landy/Pickup no problem and just connected in the fag lighter so was easily move from one truck to another in literally seconds.

 

Regards

 

Simon

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