brown dog Posted March 17, 2011 Report Share Posted March 17, 2011 Getting a 6.5x47 put together on a Surgeon. Intending to get a stubby 308 switch barrel for it too (in order to have the heavier calibre available for reds) I'm not aware of any 'cons' to this (other than the 'hassle' of changing - but that'll likely only be a twice a year thing) What extra kit will I need -action wrench/barrel clamp etc (+ recommendations)? Anti-seize lubrication? Witness marks in lieu of torque wrenches? Any other views on needs / complications / 'look out for' etc Grateful for any and all advice! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
6mmBR Posted March 17, 2011 Report Share Posted March 17, 2011 I run a switch barrel F class rig a 6.5-284 and 6mmHot. It takes a few minutes to swap. You will need a barrel vice and wrench. I use copper slip as anti sieze compound. I don't use witness marks or torque wrench I just do it up hand tight then give it a tweak up, this seems to work ok. Just need to re zero after. Cheers Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John MH Posted March 17, 2011 Report Share Posted March 17, 2011 I have a T2k, takes 5 mins to swap barrels but it was purposely designed with this in mind. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1967spud Posted March 17, 2011 Report Share Posted March 17, 2011 I run a switch barrel F class rig a 6.5-284 and 6mmHot. It takes a few minutes to swap. You will need a barrel vice and wrench. I use copper slip as anti sieze compound. I don't use witness marks or torque wrench I just do it up hand tight then give it a tweak up, this seems to work ok. Just need to re zero after. Cheers Dave Dave, do you check ever thing is ok with a go, no-go gauge? also do you find any difference in seating depths from one change to another? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
6mmBR Posted March 17, 2011 Report Share Posted March 17, 2011 Dave, do you check ever thing is ok with a go, no-go gauge? also do you find any difference in seating depths from one change to another? Hi Mark no I don't check with go/no go guage. Never checked seating depth but shouldn't make a difference. The rifle shoots just great. Cheers Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronin Posted March 17, 2011 Report Share Posted March 17, 2011 Torque wrench £25 Barrel vice - you'll need something - suggest a Davidson - £65?. Action wrench, Surgeon do one specific to their action, not costly at all -£30ish. Torqued to same setting using anti-sieze u dont really need Go / No Go guages. Thats why i'm selling the Blaser - so I can do the same thing with the BAT (switch barrel) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Gun Pimp Posted March 17, 2011 Report Share Posted March 17, 2011 Brown Dog - the Surgeon is perfect for a switch-barrel rig, having a built-in recoil-lug. Yes, you must keep the threads scupulously clean - and lubricated (with copper-slip or similar). Screw on the barrel by hand with the rifle held vertical and stop immediately if any sign of resistance and clean the threads. Use a short tommy-bar (12 inches) for screwing-up and do it as tight as you can. A couple of our guys swap barrels after a 100 yd match on the firing-point, ready for 1000 yd the next day. Cheers Vince Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
terryh Posted March 17, 2011 Report Share Posted March 17, 2011 Matt, I might have a spare torque wrench in the cellar if you want to go that way but as Vince said, using a short tommy bar by hand and you're not going to dmage anything (probably 70-80 ft.lb is all you'll manage sensibly) I'll concur on the scupulously clean but dissagree on copper slip (we are all different after all ) I will 'obtain' some correct anti sieze for stainless etc. for you. You're really going HSLD, switch barrel, 'windcheater' calibres etc. Terry Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1967spud Posted March 17, 2011 Report Share Posted March 17, 2011 Dave any chance of you changing one on camera for me please thanks mark Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Gun Pimp Posted March 18, 2011 Report Share Posted March 18, 2011 I'll concur on the scupulously clean but dissagree on copper slip (we are all different after all Agreed, there are proper anti-sieze lubes for stainless-steel but copper-slip is easy to obtain and I've used it without problem on barrel threads since I took up benchrest in 1994. Vince Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
terryh Posted March 18, 2011 Report Share Posted March 18, 2011 Vince, Copper slip will work no sweat and as you point out is very easy to get hold of, just we use the 'other' stuff a lot so its to hand, if it was mot I'd use copper slip (plus the action and barrel metal's are so dissimilar that it probably makes little difference!) TTFN Terry Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
6mmBR Posted March 18, 2011 Report Share Posted March 18, 2011 Dave any chance of you changing one on camera for me please thanks mark Can't help at the moment sorry Mark, Neils fettling the rifle for me at the moment. Cheers Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brown dog Posted March 19, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 19, 2011 Chaps, Thanks for all the advice. I'm going to go for it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan534 Posted March 27, 2011 Report Share Posted March 27, 2011 What do you use to protect the barrel when its in the barrel vice, obviously guessing its packed or wrapped in something? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronin Posted March 27, 2011 Report Share Posted March 27, 2011 Dan vice is either aluminium or steel with same OD as barrel. I use cardboard sandwiched bettween surfaces and powdered rosin (resin) which grips like sxxt. No damage, providing vice jaws tightened sufficiently to prevent spinning barrel... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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