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Some help with neck turing, help a novice please!!!!!!!!


craigyboy

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Having a wee problem with my neck turning, nothing major just want some opinions. Everywhere I have read about neck turning, one thing has been the same, you need to cut slightly into the neck/shoulder junction to stop doughnutting, I completely understand this but I cant seem to get my neck turning tool setup to just touch the neck/shoulder junction it either just doesnt touch it or cuts nearly the whole shoulder and that just looks very messy, no matter how I adjust the mandrel to set how far down the neck it cuts, it either doesnt touch it or it cuts far too much. I think it may be to do with that the bevel on the cutter in my neck turing tool is very close to the same angel as the shoulder so as soon as it touches at all it goes the whole hog and cuts it all. I have put some pics up as its quite hard to explain. I have the amount I want to take off set up perfect and I am good to go its just this other bit, I was thinking as I am only removing about 0.001 all the way around will I get away with just cutting to the bottom of the neck? I tried setting the tool up to just remove about %70 but the necks on the laupa seem so good if you touch them at all youre cleaning all the way around, loaded necks are coming out at 0.2295 and my chamber neck is .233 so its just about right, just need to sort out this neck/shoulder stuff and I am flying.

 

you can see from this phot the way its working out

 

STP60858.jpg

 

this is the sinclair tool I am using

 

STP60864.jpg

 

you can see how close the blade fits the angle

 

STP60869.jpg

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Having a wee problem with my neck turning, nothing major just want some opinions. Everywhere I have read about neck turning, one thing has been the same, you need to cut slightly into the neck/shoulder junction to stop doughnutting, I completely understand this but I cant seem to get my neck turning tool setup to just touch the neck/shoulder junction it either just doesnt touch it or cuts nearly the whole shoulder and that just looks very messy, no matter how I adjust the mandrel to set how far down the neck it cuts, it either doesnt touch it or it cuts far too much. I think it may be to do with that the bevel on the cutter in my neck turing tool is very close to the same angel as the shoulder so as soon as it touches at all it goes the whole hog and cuts it all. I have put some pics up as its quite hard to explain. I have the amount I want to take off set up perfect and I am good to go its just this other bit, I was thinking as I am only removing about 0.001 all the way around will I get away with just cutting to the bottom of the neck? I tried setting the tool up to just remove about %70 but the necks on the laupa seem so good if you touch them at all youre cleaning all the way around, loaded necks are coming out at 0.2295 and my chamber neck is .233 so its just about right, just need to sort out this neck/shoulder stuff and I am flying.

 

you can see from this phot the way its working out

 

STP60858.jpg

 

this is the sinclair tool I am using

 

hi craigyboy

 

the only thing i can say is to remove some metal on the part of the cutter that is touching the shoulders with a wet stone or a very fine ginder. just enough to get a bit of clearance and it should be ok. i've only used the k/m cutter and never had a problem. generally though if your necks don't veri no more then a thou i would not bother unless its a tight neck. my 6mmbr is a .271 neck and a loaded round using lapua brass is .2695 just 1.5 thou clearance 3/4 each side with no problems.

 

 

 

 

 

STP60864.jpg

 

you can see how close the blade fits the angle

 

STP60869.jpg

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Guest varmartin

Hi craigyboy...

 

I dont know if it is supposed to be like that on the Sinclair cutter, but there is an air gap between the start of the neck and the cutter face ??

 

My K+M tool cut for the whole length of the edge then a small amount into the neck...no gaps ???

 

Could this indicate an incorrect ground edge or a completely wrong cutter for that caliber ??

 

Have you been supplied a 40 degree cutter ?

 

Martin

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You need to have your tool cut to 40 degrees mate (like Martin suggested) or get a K&M which is set to the right angle.

 

 

Your tool has too shallow and angle, it's too similar to the .223 case shoulder - which is why its cutting such a large face off the shoulder.

 

Your cases need only this much off / into the shoulder to avoid dohnut.

 

DSC00334.jpg

 

It doesn't matter if the cut is irregular on the shoulder either (like the case in the photo) shoulders are rarely concentric untill fireformed :lol:

 

Oh thats a 300WSM necked down to .284 and trimmed to .312" if youre interested!

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I use a K&M turner and from memory it does not have the angled piece that is causing the problem just a straight cutter. I finish up with results like Andys. Just a thought, how about putting the cutter in the other way up so that you have a square edge at the top as the pics show. Might need to rotate the cases in the opposite direction I suppose.

 

Not sure it that would work or is a silly idea.

 

A

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I would go with 6br just grind off some metal almost right down to the cutting edge and stone in a small bevel if you can at that edge.Should do the trick.Best of luck..I use a K@M myself and have no experience of the Sinclair so cant help with regard to whether you have the correct cutter or not,sorry???.Onehole.

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Craigy, here is a picture of the replacement cutter from the Sinclair site.

 

521220.JPG

 

The angle arrowed needs to be ground to a steeper angle then the case shoulder and a small radius stoned on the intersection with the front of the tool, that way, when set up the tool will cut lightly into the shoulder without actually cutting the shoulder as illustrated in your photo

Your mate who runs the machine shop should be able to do it for you or one of his employees who is able to grind tools offhand, take it along to him with a case and explain what you want should only take a couple of minutes.

 

Ian.

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Thanks for the replies guys, I came to the conclusion most of you did myself (I should have thought a while longer before posting), I checked the cutter and it was a 30 degree version, which is more or less the same as the shoulder on the case, I was going to take it to the grinder but its a fiddly piece to do freehand, phoned Trent Firearms (this place seems to have everything for loading) they had a 40 degree cutter to fit my tool in stock, now if the postal strike would hurry up and end I could get on with turning the necks! Geoff It probably would work turned around, I never thought of that one, ah well I have the right one coming in the post now anyhow. Thanks lads

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I dont know if she would be much use for neck turning panther her hands look a bit too soft, but send her over and I am sure ill find another use for her :lol:

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