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wilson dies are very accurate


craigyboy

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just been playing with my new wilson dies and arbor press loaded up some empty rounds just to get the seater set up, I ran them over the concentricity gauge for the crack 0.0005 run out at the most it came close to 0.001 but didnt even reach it, with my previous redding deluexe dies runout was usually up to 0.005 though there was the odd higher one, very impressed with this wilson gear, love the neck sizer too as its set up already to only size 3 1/16 of the neck so no messing around with it, cant wait to see what the new reloads will do on paper.

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Alycidon if you want to try my ppc wilson dies before you buy your own just say the word and i will stick them in the post for you. I find my wilson hand dies just slightly better than the redding comp sets i have,i tend to spoil myself and buy a set of redding and wilson for each cal i reload for.

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Craigy

 

are you sure it isn't .005" to .001" run out and not .0001" - .0005" runout as youv'e posted?

 

 

The figures seem, well too good to be true, perhaps I should invest in some hand dies too :P

 

 

whatever the reading is, it seems you have your'e loading spot on ;)

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honestly Andy thats the run out, I only loaded 5 up though, I am sure after 50 there may be slight bit more, I know it sounds to good to be true but thats what the runout gauge tells me, I checked one of my redding die reloads straight after and it was 0.005 out which is normal enough for that ammo so the guage definatley isnt wrong, hard to believe but its true and I am very happy with the results of my new investment.

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Not doubting you Craig, just wondered if the dial was calibrated for thou (.001) or tenths of thou (.0001)

 

 

I thought I was doing well with .001" - .003" - must try harder ;)

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Andy to be honest I dont know how mine got so good but I do seat in 3 steps, seat a bit and turn around seat a bit more etc, dont know if it makes a big difference but I do anything I can to get better results. I am still only a novice and have a lot to learn (and I mean a lot) I think I have just hit on a bit of luck with regards to getting runout so well, I am sure if I loaded 50 and checked them there would be alot bigger variance. also as for he dial I have an engineer (not a gunsmith) friend who runs a massive firm making aerospace parts etc and he is able to get me those sorts of things. I am always pestering him for bits and pieces.

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Your'e pal with the aerospace firm has CNC lathes?

 

Tick ,,,,,tick,,,,, tick,,,,,,lathe turned bullets ;)

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I know andy, this has been a thought for a while, I wish way back when I bought my cooper I had of bought a bigger action to handle more pressure if that was the case I probably would have rebarreled now in that 20 satan bruce potts built and had some custom 70g bullets done, I like the .20's as in this country they are easily got (easier than a .223 or 22-250) the firearms poeple just look at it in a calibre size sort of way i.e 20 cal is smaller than .22 so not as dangerous, silly way of looking at it but that seems to be the way it works. Maybe when I move onto bigger and better things I can persude him to run me some nice stuff to play with.

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Alycidon if you want to try my ppc wilson dies before you buy your own just say the word and i will stick them in the post for you. I find my wilson hand dies just slightly better than the redding comp sets i have,i tend to spoil myself and buy a set of redding and wilson for each cal i reload for.

 

 

That is very kind but I am looking for dies for the 20BR I am starting. Craigyboy tells me that they are pretty simple to use and Vermincinerator is only a few miles away if I get in the crap. I need the press as well as I only have the Redding Comp die set in PPC and std RCBS in 22.250.

 

A

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Only getting 2 to 3 tenths runout from my 6ppc and 6br Redding comp die set which is where I like to be but am often tempted to get a set of Wilsons just to try.Interesting to read these comments.I,m not sure what a maximum runout figure would be before it would possibly affect accuracy but I would not like to be much in excess of 5 tenths or so especially if you are running with a tight neck etc as one would be giving up all the potential benefits of such a set up in the first place me thinks.Where is the best place to shop for Wilsons???anybody please.cheers onehole.

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Onehole

 

 

interesting thoughts, what indeed is the magical figure where accuracy is affected by runout?

 

 

My 6.5x284 is perhaps the most accurate rifle I own, I neck turn my cases to a specific size and use Redding Bushing dies, run out is in the order of .002" to .005" when I check loaded rounds.

 

I also have a 22-250AI, that has a tight neck, which I have to turn cases for, BUT I use standard Redding Dies to load this, now runout is slightly more at .002"to .008" but I see groups in the order of 3/8's inch regularly.

 

I have partially turned my 308 cases to uniform them for the AW (which is a standard chamber) and runout is .005" to .015", this shoots 1/2" to 3/4" groups no matter what load is thrown down it.

 

Anyone else made similar observations?

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Guest Lambert Babs
Onehole

interesting thoughts, what indeed is the magical figure where accuracy is affected by runout?

My 6.5x284 is perhaps the most accurate rifle I own, I neck turn my cases to a specific size and use Redding Bushing dies, run out is in the order of .002" to .005" when I check loaded rounds.

 

I also have a 22-250AI, that has a tight neck, which I have to turn cases for, BUT I use standard Redding Dies to load this, now runout is slightly more at .002"to .008" but I see groups in the order of 3/8's inch regularly.

 

I have partially turned my 308 cases to uniform them for the AW (which is a standard chamber) and runout is .005" to .015", this shoots 1/2" to 3/4" groups no matter what load is thrown down it.

 

Anyone else made similar observations?

 

 

Is the gauge you use a digital or analouge gauge Andy?

and are you doing the check in the trim lathe manual or mechanical spun?

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The mic is a Mitutoyo dial caliper (old fashioned clock guage)

 

 

I turn my necks with a K&M micro ajust tool (.0001" / 1 tenth thou ajustable) on a slow speed electric screwdriver and a dab of light grade cutting oil on each case. Cut cases in batches no more than .002 / .003" off each cut, thats total not depth.

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Guest Lambert Babs
The mic is a Mitutoyo dial caliper (old fashioned clock guage)

I turn my necks with a K&M micro ajust tool (.0001" / 1 tenth thou ajustable) on a slow speed electric screwdriver and a dab of light grade cutting oil on each case. Cut cases in batches no more than .002 / .003" off each cut, thats total not depth.

 

 

Interesting do you fire form your cases as well?

When your neck wall cutting how do you manage to keep it concentric without using neck mandrel concentric to the axis by using a battery screwdriver run at slow speed? I presume that the K&M tool runs on a spindle through the primer pocket from the case mouth to a case spinner?

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The K&M has a case holder which attaches to the case head, this is attached to a slow speed electric screw driver.

 

The first stage of neck turning with this system is to expand the case necks to the same diameter as the mandrel in the turning tool, they are matched "expanders" to cutting mandrels.

 

Whilst I understand your concern over concentricity, the cases are turned surpisingly evenly when you do the cutting in stages.

 

Fireform loads - yes the first shot in each case will fireform the barss to the chamber size, I then neck size only.

 

This system has worked for me for years.

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