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17 squirrel

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About 17 squirrel

  • Birthday 06/08/1958

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    telford

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  1. Hi Matt I have made a few. If you can, it is worth getting Remington brass as I have found you don’t normally need to neck turn. Unlike Lapua that normally does need neck turning. Do you already have a set of .17 Fireball dies.
  2. Hi Ballistol. I am a gas fitter / plumber so I get mine through my local merchant when they order lead flashing etc. Have used Calder lead, Heaps Arnold’s Heaps and Royston lead. They will all supply soft lead wire but often have a minimum order weight usually 20/25 kg and their carriage changes are usually quite expensive.
  3. 1066 is right, use the wrong material and you will crack the die. That’s an expensive lesson to learn, don’t ask me how I know that. You can use old lead pipe etc but tell Corbin when you order the die and they will make it to suit. With mine it had one large bleed hole instead of three small ones. That can then cause problems if you use soft lead as the weight may vary slightly. I have found that brought lead wire gives the best most consistent results. I sometimes use leaded plumbers solder to make air rifle slugs/pellets as it is readily available and reasonably consistent/soft. For “match slugs” I Swage a core 2-3 grains overweight in a .190 core die that I use for .243 jacket bullets. That tightened the groups no end. Hope you keep us updated how it goes.
  4. Yes it is a Corbin set up. The first Swaging set up I brought Was in the late 80s. It was, Mighty Mite press, a four die set to make open and lead tip bullets in .224. A derim die to make jackets from fired .22 rimfire cases, also one to make them into .243 Jackets, 1000 j4 jackets In .224 all for the sum of $769.00. I don’t think that would get you a press now. Dave Corbin used to make what he called Pro Swage dies to fit standard reloading presses which made lead bullets. Might be worth a look. The die I use is a corbin one. The minimal bearing surface on small caliber lead bullets, I found made them very hard to get to shoot accurately. I got much better results with semi wad cutter type What I would call pistol bullets. I got those shooting really well. That was all sub 12 ft/lb break barrel though. New pcp air rifles a capable of so much more. Phone Dave Corbin and have a word with him, he’s a good guy to talk to and is very knowledgeable in all things bullet.
  5. Hi Aggy. I swage air gun slugs, but only in .22. The lightest I can make is about 22g depends on the base shape. I also make .177 pellets but not the Diablo/waisted type Or slugs, they are more like a hand gun shape of lead bullet. I think air guns in general ( Barrel length, twist and especially speed of bullet) Are closer to hand guns than riffles. Air guns are now light years ahead of my old Sharp innova, BSA Airsporter. If you want PM me about swaging.
  6. Hi Aggy. I swage air gun slugs, but only in .22. The lightest I can make is about 22g depends on the base shape. I also make .177 pellets but not the Diablo/waisted type Or slugs, they are more like a hand gun shape of lead bullet. I think air guns in general ( Barrel length, twist and especially speed of bullet) Are closer to hand guns than riffles. Air guns are now light years ahead of my old Sharp innova, BSA Airsporter. If you want PM me about swaging.
  7. Hi Jay I had the very same problem with a Nightforce scope. Tried strap wrench and all sorts. In the end I protected the lense as best I could with discs cut from an ice cream container and sponges. Turned the combi boiler to max, turned on the hot tap, restricted the flow till it was to hot to hold my hand under. Put the offending threads under for 2-3 minutes and sunshade came off a treat. I cleaned the threads put a little silicone grease on them and after a little work it now goes on and off as it should
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