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MarinePMI

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About MarinePMI

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  • Birthday 10/13/1970

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    San Diego, Ca

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  1. MarinePMI

    New Tikka rimfire

    Indeed. The world would be a boring place otherwise...
  2. MarinePMI

    New Tikka rimfire

    Hey now...
  3. MarinePMI

    Tikka and KRG X-Ray chassis

    You should set the height to your body's conformation, not so that the rifle can be cleaned easier. If you happen to need the the butt pad higher than most, you may consider ordering the tool less adjustable butt pad assembly from KRG. Makes moving it out of the way, and back again, much easier.
  4. MarinePMI

    6.5 Creedmoor v 6.5 Swede

    Yes, but SOCOM has been using a 6.5mm round for several years now. It's just official now...
  5. MarinePMI

    Practical rifle comp Norwich 1980,s

    Yeah, we always figure a way to make it work, even when recoil tends to push him off the top of a berm... Hell, he lays out the CoF for most of our monthly matches these days.
  6. MarinePMI

    Practical rifle comp Norwich 1980,s

    Yes, missing a limb does not make you less adept at shooting, you just have to improvise, adapt and overcome. Here's a vid of a buddy making it work... As the video is titled, "Your excuses are invalid". https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q5zxKEPx8Ss
  7. MarinePMI

    New Tactical Tikka

    Yeah, I got mine from Oz (Sterk). Well made, and feels almost like I'm running my AI bolt. Mine is black/black, but below is an example of it.
  8. MarinePMI

    6.5 Creedmoor v 6.5 Swede

    It's also worth mentioning that the 6.5 CM is now being adopted by US SOCOM, so it's existence is assured to not be just "a fad".
  9. MarinePMI

    Tikka 260 T3x odd groupings

    Mick, It's hard to say. Some scopes had permanent damage, others did not. My suspicion is that this was due to what cartridge was being fired (amount of recoil) and where the rings were placed on the scope tube in relation to the scope's erector design (as well as FFP/SFP, each with an entirely different erector system and number of lenses). This is one of the reasons it is often recommended to not attach rings to a FFP scope near the erector adjustment housing. There are some that say that they should also not be near the bell of the objective or ocular lens as well (since these are typically where the focal points are, for each set of lenses (objective and ocular) of a FFP scope). If this sort of thing interests you, I'd highly recommend perusing some of ILya's blog postings and videos. There is a plethora of valuable information with regards to optics (how they're made, how they work, how lenses interact, etc.) on his site. His accent can be a challenge at times, but he really knows his stuff (plus, it's part of his day job, though not rifle scopes in particular). http://www.darklordofoptics.com
  10. MarinePMI

    Tikka 260 T3x odd groupings

    Mick, Here's a video showing how the rings move, and rely on the scope tube flexing to keep it in place: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7Nrfd6eQgLQ And here is a conversation, with industry input, that explains that this is a known issue. When Frank Galli and Ilya Koshkin both agree it's an issue, I tend to listen. Both are experts in their areas of expertise, and look at real world data, vice marketing and BD speak. https://forum.snipershide.com/threads/vertically-split-rings.6878478/page-2#post-6978483 And here is the original post, about scopes going down/losing zero during training courses. Very eyeopening, and shows how this issue has gotten by without notice until you have a large sampling of rifles and glass, and see a trend of RTZ failures all having a common theme: vertically split rings. https://forum.snipershide.com/threads/return-to-zero-failures.6483776/
  11. MarinePMI

    Tikka 260 T3x odd groupings

    Listen to MTLEADFARMER, vertically split rings cause this exact symptom. It's been demonstrated numerous times. Continued use of vertically split rings can damage the erector of the scope if the rings have been tighten improperly (both in torque, and order of tightening). Even Vortex now asks as a matter of course when a customer calls in with a problem "Are you using vertically split rings?". When one of the largest optics manufacturers in the US does this as SOP, it should tell you there is something to this. Also, you need to ensure that you are pushing the rings forward, against the pic rail slots, as they are tightened down. There is enough tolerance in the ring to base slot fit, that they can move under recoil, if not set up with both rings firmly butted up against the forward wall of each slot. Finally, make sure the rings are actually clamping the rail properly. I just had a friend send his Vortex AMG back, only to find out nothing was wrong with it. When he got it back and remounted it, he discovered that the Seekins rings he had, had an out of spec foot (was too short/thin), so that when he clamped the rings down to the rail, it was gripping the point, and not the flat of the side of the pic rail (essentially pinching the rail, instead of seating against the rail). You could literally see light between the foot and rail. Your groups are too consistent to be just human error. Something is moving, and in a repeatable fashion.
  12. MarinePMI

    Lock and Load

    Interesting. We (the Marines) never stored the rifles cocked. As it was passed to the armorer for storage, the weapon was checked that it was cleared/empty, and the trigger was them pressed to allow the hammer to fall, before placing it in the rack. AFAIK, the "lock and load" reference we used, was to "lock the bolt to the rear", insert the magazine, and then load the rifle by releasing the bolt (which obviously stripped around from the magazine and chambered it). This insured that the bolt was completely in battery, and not partially so, due to short stroking the charging handle or easing the bolt into battery (which would most likely cause it not to go into battery with the topped off magazine.
  13. MarinePMI

    quality mincer

    I'm not sure if the ship to the UK and support UK power requirements, but here in the US, LEM is pretty much the gold standard. All high quality stuff. https://www.lemproducts.com/
  14. MarinePMI

    Woodchuck den annealer

    If you're handy, you can build your own. When I started down this annealing path, this is what I more or less did (plenty of other examples out there on the web). Homemade Automatic Annealer It works, but can be finicky to set up when changing cartridges, and keeping the flame constant (I used a secondary pressure regulator in between the propane bottle and nozzle). All this being said, I finally just bit the bullet and ordered a "AMP" (Annealing Made Easy). Uber consistent, but pricey. Like stated above, if you're just trying to extend case life, you proposed method will work. But you'll probably end up trashing a few cases every now and then, since heating them to the right temperature is difficult. You just need to decide how far into this you want to go... JMTCW...
  15. MarinePMI

    New Tactical Tikka

    I believe the switch to the CTR specific mag came about due to the large Canadian contract for rifles for their "Rangers" (or whatever they were called), to replace their old issued Enfields. The contract required a detachable 10 rd magazine, so when Tikka/Beretta submitted a rifle it was heavily based on the CTR, which at the time used TRG mags. With that many rifles to be supplied (after they won the contract), and the booming sales of the CTR in the US, it makes sense that they came up with a mag that would be cheaper, but only work in the CTR based rifles. I'm just surprised someone hasn't come up with a cheap replacement bottom mag plate to make the CTR mags work in the TRG (probably not enough volume to justify the cost would be my guess). As for it being a cheap AI, I'd have to agree to some level; they certainly are nearly as smooth an action. Since it also has the TRG two stage trigger, that comparison is moot as well. I'd guess the big difference is the barrel intercangeability on the AI, and it's over robust action (that works every time, all the time). Accuracy wise, they seem on par with each other. All this being said, with the appearance of several companies now offering barrel nut Tikka replacement barrels, they (Tikka) may start taking a considerable bite out of the AI sales here in the US. Hardest part on the Tikka is getting the OEM barrel off (I just made a relief cut on the OEM barrel to avoid the frustration, but not everyone has a lathe, or easy access to one). Of note: The Tikka A1 (aka "TicTac") will require the handguard bushing to be modified to accept the barel nut due to it's larger diameter. The only thing I wish Tikka had done with the A1, was offer an AI style bolt handle. I have one on a .223 Tikka Varmint, and it makes all the difference in the work when working the bolt without moving your head off the stock.
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