Popsbengo

no.

Android phone apps will run on BlueStacks and there's a version for Mac OS. However I found it better to dual-boot my MacBook and run Android on Windows 10. I had to set this up to run Quick Load anyway.

Hope to.

I use 'Applied Ballistics' app (cheap and simple) and a bog standard Kestrel for close wind and experience for down range wind. No problems so far. A little bit of pre-planning for G7 data (readily available). I've tried other apps and they all do roughly the same thing. There's no substitute for developing your own dope, I keep a log book and irrespective of weather conditions ballistic settings for drop are usually close. For example I dialled my previous settings at my last Eskdalemuir outing in February and first shot hit at 1550 with .338LM. That'll do. Elevation is physics and amenable to calculation however windage is part physics part black art. There's no substitute for developing the necessary wind-reading skills. Unfortunately field ranges like Eskdalemuir have next to no wind indicators - the best usually being your (or your mate's) last shots. I'm yet to see anyone achieve much with taking a wind reading at the firing point and nothing further for +1000yds! With regard to Quick Load, I have just purchased a copy and find it useful when considering a new powder. Is it 'invaluable'? Not in my opinion. It's also only as good as the data you enter - I've just run some 5.56 simulations and the QL data for NATO brass and Sierra MK dimensions do not line up with actual measurements of components in hand so inputting one's own data is necessary. By the way Ralph, are you going to the Stafford Classic Bike show on Saturday 20th ?

Better ? How better? More accurate or easier to use? After all that last 0.001" makes such a difference 😁 I use a Hornady gauge with the better Sinclair steel insert for bullet comparison and the Hornady alloy inserts for case shoulders. Seems to work very well, easy and quickly adaptable between calibres.

That's great, thanks. I did wonder as there's no stamping/engraving as would be likely for a OEM make

I have some TR sights that I've inherited that I can't ID. The eye piece and foresight are Gehmann however I have no idea what age/model etc. The mount adapter plate fits a Swing 7.62 TR rifle circa 1970's. Any thoughts on make of sight and or model numbers of the eye piece and foresight would be most helpful. If anyone has a view as to value that would be a great help

Lyman 49th Handbook doesn't list N140 as an option, rather they prefer N150 for 55gr A Max (they don't list your specific bullet). Their max for N150 is 36.5gr with an expected MV of 3663 from a 24" barrel.

I use a Tier 1 FTR rest with ski feet on a rubber covered board and a heavy bag (chromate sand). Shot hundreds of .338 rounds with no issue and decent accuracy maintained. The rest is still as good as new. I'm not so much but that's just age....

Have you considered actually writing to S&B and asking them? We had very good feedback from CCI in response to an email enquiry.

bugger !

I'll take them please George, I'll PM you

In answer to your OP It only requires a few thou to create the "off centre" zero you report. A combination of ring and rail (or dovetail, you don't mention either), can easily set the scope "off". Plus one for a Spuhr mount. Expensive but there's nothing better.

Just used Geoffrey Kolbe's ballistic app; guess what - 2768fps with the same data inputted. I suppose he could just be wrong too ? I'd take your load data with a pinch of salt unless someone else has similar performance to report. If it were me, I'd check the calibration of my scales.

I see. I've just run your load through Quickload for interest as I've been toying with 300NM, re-barrelling my .338LM 29.5 inch barrel, 1:8 twist RS76 83.4gr Sierra MK 220 Is that correct ? That gives a case fill of just 84% and a resultant MV of only 2799fps. Assuming a typo for powder quantity (for the purposes of sandyb's question) and trying 93.4gr (94% fill and 3110fps MV) - that gives a highly dangerous over-load so I'm pretty sure that can't be what you're using. So how do you get 3120fps ?

how's that 1/4 moa ?

Here's an opportunity to have your say regarding the de-regulation of controls on sound moderators. It take less than 5 mins. https://www.homeofficesurveys.homeoffice.gov.uk/s/M2F0UW/

ah, that makes sense now !

N150 is a bit slow for 155gr bullets. N140 is probably a better choice. N540 is a bit of a barrel burner and I find N140 to be just right. I use 155 Scenar with 43.5gr N140 with Lapua brass and BR4 primers. 2750 fps from 24" 1:11 barrel - good enough to be accurate at 1000yds if the wind's not blowing. I use N150 under 185gr Berger Jugs. and that's excellent

ttt

Hi I have a Lee press (used but in very good condition) and a set of Lee powder scales (new, never taken out of the box) Press £45 plus p&p Scales £20 plus p&p Pick up from N. Staffs for free.

This is brilliant for brass in an ultrasonic. https://www.carbusonic.co.uk/-ULTRASONIC-CLEANING-FLUID-JEWELLERY-JEWELRY-WATCHES-TATTOO-DENTAL I drain down and let it stand for a day or so, poor off the clear and dump the crap - top up occasionally. Their carb cleaner does steel parts well but so does dish detergent in hot water

I've just finished reading Jeff Siewart's book "Ammunition Demystified". I came to it via listening to him on Hornady podcasts. Very informative and not too hard going save the occasional equation or two. Four hundred pages related to internal ballistics, bullet design and rifle design. There's plenty of food for thought regarding the root causes of shot dispersion, some quite surprising and not at all common place in the usual discussions on optimising ammo, in my experience anyway. Highly recommended to anyone looking to understand what's happening in the rifle and how that affects bullet motion on its way down range.

Compromise available mag... bad positional or poor shooting form ? you're talking .22 rimfire ! Holding an aiming mark at 1 mile with a .338LM is a bit different I think you must agree and also more appropriate to the previous comments to Ralph's original post.

Never had a problem with rings, I use a tip (I forget where from) to use a piece of lead solder as a buffer between the set screw and die thread. Works a treat