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MichalS

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  1. MichalS

    New barrel breaking in

    In my opinion it's the bullets that do the "polishing", but cleaning removes copper residue that interferes with the proccess. I wouldnt spend 25% barrell life on it, but 50 rounds out of 5000 in 308Win seem OK if it makes the rifle shoot better.
  2. MichalS

    New barrel breaking in

    Being new to centerfire game, I researched the topic extensively. There are those who believe in barrell brake in and those who don't, and I believe a lot of it depends on personal experience. When I bought my first centerfire rifle (Sabatti) I got a detailed instruction of brake in - it takes a whole A4 page and details how many movememts with which kind of brush You should make. I followed it and can testify it works - you can feel it (the first cleaning I needed my fathers help to push the patch through) and see it - over the first 100 rounds and countless cleanings my groups shrank from 0.8 to 0.3 MOA using the same factory ammo. On my second rifle (a Tikka) the effect was less pronounced but was still there. How is it possible some people don't believe it then? They are used to custom barrels, that cost nearly as much as my complete rifle, and have been hand lapped and run in at the factory... If you buy factory, and not a high end custom - it's worth it. Michal
  3. It's a great looking rifle You have there! A great stock, looks a bit like a Dolphin? If any moderators are reading this, maybe we could move the non-powder related discussion into another thread? "223 rifle for 300m ISSF" maybe? Michal
  4. What can I say - great minds think alike, but I'm one step ahead I also wanted to be able to use GGG, but the just introduced 77gr SMK one which is basically a Mk 262 Mod 1 clone and much better ballistically. I was able to test it before official market introduction (see photo of 5 shot group @100m) because of my F Class "sucess" with GGG ammo. They are around 80 p a piece in Poland. Forget 69gr, go 77gr but be aware You're giving alot away ballistically compared do 80gr (G1 BC of .301 vs .375 vs .461 accordingly). I'm not worried about beeing competitive - of the 10 guys who shoot 300m, 5 shoot 590+ so I will be concentrating on having fun
  5. Robin, The whole driving force behind my .223 project is to build an affordable 300m ISSF rifle with affordable amunition for a casual shooter. I'm a ISSF air/smalbore shooter, last year dipped my toe in F Class with moderate success (3rd at Nationals) and this year I'll be playing @300m. I'm building a T3x Tikka in a custom stock with Walther sights. According to ballistic calculator with 80gr Sierra @2800fps I will be giving up around an inch of wind drift in 4m/s (10mph) wind compared to factory 6mm BR Lapua. It doesn't seem too bad... I may consider a short "production" run if the project is successfull to make the equipment more accesible (we only have a handfull competitors now because of the cost). I will taka a look on Your website. I'm describing the projects progress on FB (unfortunatelly in Polish­čś× https://www.facebook.com/dlugidystans/ Michal
  6. Thank You all! The reason I'm contemplating a slightly hoter load is I'm currently at 98% case fill according to QL (I can hear powder moving inside). I'm wondering if going closer to 100% (25gr) would produce more uniform velocities (lower SD)? Then again, I would probably be pushing pressures... Michal
  7. I just finished first part of my first ever load development. I want to have the best possible cartridge for my DIY 300m ISSF rifle based on Tikka T3x in .223 Rem. I aimed for 2800fps with 80gr Sierra MK and achieved it perfectly on the first try with 24.6gr RS52. The thing is it was so easy I'm wondering if to go even higher? Rifle is a stock T3x .223 24" 1:8 Varmint, 80gr SMK, COAL 2.44" (.020 to the lands), Federal GM primer, new GGG brass with 30.0gr water capacity. The thing is I shot in 9*C temperature, and we had 30*C during last Nationals. Strelok calcululates my load will generate 2900fps in that temperature, so I'm a bit cautious... Do You have any empirical data on RS52 temperature sensitivity? Also I would like to thank Laurie, VarmLR, Bradders, Re-Pete and others who put me on the right track form the very beginning of my adventure Attached are the load/velocity table and photo of the brass from the 24.6gr load. TIA, Michal
  8. As I had great results with GGG ammo, I plan on using the brass I accumulated (both .223 and .308). I also managed to buy a 1000 new .223 GGG cases for 20p a piece... What is Your opinion on it? Have anyone measured and compared it's capacity with comercially available cases? I know "military" stuff can have smaller capacity and require load reduction.... One thing i noticed is that the neck is thinner (~0.010") compared to Lapua (~0.015"). TIA, Michal
  9. I want to use 223 and 308 GGG brass for reloading as I gathered quite a bit. What would be the best way to remove military crimp from the primer pockets? TIA, Michal
  10. MichalS

    Can You identify this scope?

    Thank You Guys!
  11. MichalS

    Sierra .30 210gn opinions

    I'm curious about Your opinion on the bullet in .308 - I'm thinking about changing my rifle to something with a faster twist and it seems really attractive compared to 200.20x Berger that are rather expensive and difficult to get. TIA, Michal
  12. One of our top F class shooters uses a scope pictured below and I was wondering what can it be? Looks "tactical"... TIA, Michal
  13. Thank You for all the suggestions. I'm based in Europe, so British rifles are not very common. Some people use Enfield's with success, but we don't see the less common models - I will a look at them. Swedish Mauser's dominate...
  14. There are 2 "History" classes: - open - rifles made pre 1950, mechanical sights based on pre 1950 designs; You're basically allowed to use a diopter and circular (globe) front sight in open - military - only original military rifles produced pre 1950, with original sights; only post sight allowed at the front. The distances are 100-200-300m. .222 to .458 calibre. I'd like to compete in open so basically looking for a pre 1950 target rifle... Michal
  15. I want to take part in "History" class at a national level long range competiton. The rules say the rifle has to be built before 1950 and have mechanical sights (diopter). What would You choose for the job? Michal
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