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cooter

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  1. cooter

    Lee press primer arm falling out!

    I took mine apart and found the shouldered bolt/pin had worn. I wrapped some tin foil around the groove in the handle and no problems since. One day i'll get another bolt and fix it properly.
  2. cooter

    interesting little problem

    Have you checked the h2o case capacity?
  3. cooter

    CZ 452 Pictinny Rail

    I bought two from Kinneys in the US for reasonable money. Pretty sure they still do them.
  4. cooter

    Has the .17 HMR had its day?

    The 17 Hornet has a load range from 9.7 to 10 Grn of Lil Gun, although I could never get this much powder in the case. From my own experience, at 23C when running 9.4 Grn gave pressure signs, the same load at 12C (where it was developed) was reasonably accurate. Are you running them in a .22 Hornet?
  5. cooter

    Has the .17 HMR had its day?

    DO63 is very good, but I find it a PITA the measure, and it really does build up static. N110 and N120 are equally good without the static IME. Lil Gun is good, but there is a fine line between pop and bang, and ambient temperature variation can cross the line. I also use a slower load with Trail boss for night work, but I stocked up before the reach regulations kicked in. A replacement for it is probably Tinstar N32C from Vhit, or possibly one of the shotgun powders like red dot.
  6. cooter

    Has the .17 HMR had its day?

    I have a 22LR, 17 HMR and a .17 Hornet, as well as two other larger common CF calibres. As a pest controller covering 2500 acres, and shooting at least 500 rabbits a year, I would be spending as much time reloading as I do shooting if it wasn't for the HMR. The available HMR ammo has improved slightly over the last 12 months, although I never found it that bad before. The HMR has it's place, and mine now sits with a Photon on it, where it excels.
  7. cooter

    .223 barrel cleaning

    Was it a new rifle and did you run it in?
  8. cooter

    Brass

    When I first started out loading the .223 I bought 300 once fired mixed brass (mostly Winchester and Federal) from someone who was well regarded. I reloaded the same brass for ten years, with all manner of loads, and had no issues at all, some of the brass doing 20+ reloads in that time. Over time I added Norma, SAKO, Nosler (again once fired) and some RP that I used for my DSC1, and could see nothing different in the performance of the finished loads, albeit I am not target shooting other than the occasional extended zeroing session out to 400 Yds. Eventually I bought some new Lapua brass, and some PPU and began to throw the FC and Winchester away as I was loosing a few each time they were fired. The PPU are now the main work horse and get the most abuse. The Lapua are reserved for target work, for no reason other than I only use them for one load. Of all the brands I have tried my favorite brass has been the Winchester for general hunting loads. I found it to be thinner and softer than any of the other brands, it stress anneals well, and is very easy to work (trim, size etc). I find PPU harder (thicker) than any other brand, a pig to work with (shoulder bumping is particularly hit and miss) and they require far more annealing than any other brand, but accurate enough once the load is right. Unless you are target shooting, where you can find all the spent cases, I would go for something that you don't mind loosing the odd case, or have one case for range work and another for hunting.
  9. cooter

    223 52gr Amax and 223 50gr vmax

    I use 52Grn A Max and N133 as my main varmint load. They are a short bullet and I find them to be very jump tolerant, that said I use a COL of 2.240 (tried all the way out to 2.280) only as it allows me to leave the dies in the same position for a number of bullets I use. 24 Grn gave no increase in performance over 23 Grn, and the performance of 24Grn in warm weather was erratic. Overall I found 3000fps to be optimal in my rifle (1..9 twist in a 22" barrel), which is what I get from 23Grn. Each to his own, and what suits my rifle probably will not suit yours.
  10. cooter

    Lapua 308 brass

    Raptor calls (on here) makes a very effective (and well regarded) machine for the common cartridges for a few hundred pounds, which would allow you to anneal them as often as you like for very little effort. I anneal all my carts using the blow torch and battery drill in a dark room method (not the most accurate or consistent way but it works for me), and have been using the same 200 Lapua cases, which I bought when I first got the .308, for about 20 firings (annealed after every 5 firings) with no noticeable change in performance. I have read posts from target shooters who anneal after each firing once they have the machine to do so. Just a thought, and maybe it does not suit you, but over time annealing your brass rather than buying new will save you money.
  11. cooter

    New dies

    For those using Forster are you using an arbour press?
  12. cooter

    Lapua 308 brass

    Why not try annealing a few and see if it makes any difference?
  13. I should have said that I use the same process for all my US cleaning. I am still recycling the same 2ltr batch of Birchwood Casey solution that I made up around nine years ago (not because I am tight, it just keeps on doing the job), and it has easily done 10,000 rounds by now, so it is very economical. Bicarb is also very good as a final rinse if you don't have any BC. I have had to replace my first batch of beakers as they got crushed by the perspex holder (hole was made as a tight fit when it should have been clearance) when the water heated it up. It took a little practice to find the optimum depth of water/beaker seating depth to have in the US bath. Use rubber bands around the beaker to allow seating height adjustment if/when required. The number of cases in the beaker is best at around 2/3rds of the diameter (around 40 in .223 and 30 in .308), and always try to stand them on the case head to get the best results. Don't stick your finger in the bath when it is running it will damage your nerve endings. If you want to check it is working use a strip of tin foil held lightly in the centre of the water, it should come out perforated. If a case falls over during a rinse cycle use a bent hair grip or paper clip (about a 3mm hook is all I make it into) in the case mouth to stand it back up. Get a flour sieve or colander to drain/rinse the cases off between acid and neutraliser rinses. When I run the BC rinse I lift the cases out of the beaker rather than try to pour them into something else. I always do a clean water rinse between acid and neutraliser as I find it removes the stuff that sits above the flash hole. Seaclean is also meant to be a very good at removing carbon but I have never tried it. Can't think of anything else. HTH
  14. I use a dry patch before it goes back in the cabinet to remove the loose stuff that the last bullet though leaves behind, that way it reduces the chance of any of it falling back into the action.
  15. Reply to the thread below and buy the press, scale priming tool, case trimmer etc. it is a very good start. The rest you can pick up as you go along. Keep all the cases from your fired rounds and you can reload them.
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