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About cooter

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  1. I should have said that I use the same process for all my US cleaning. I am still recycling the same 2ltr batch of Birchwood Casey solution that I made up around nine years ago (not because I am tight, it just keeps on doing the job), and it has easily done 10,000 rounds by now, so it is very economical. Bicarb is also very good as a final rinse if you don't have any BC. I have had to replace my first batch of beakers as they got crushed by the perspex holder (hole was made as a tight fit when it should have been clearance) when the water heated it up. It took a little practice to find the optimum depth of water/beaker seating depth to have in the US bath. Use rubber bands around the beaker to allow seating height adjustment if/when required. The number of cases in the beaker is best at around 2/3rds of the diameter (around 40 in .223 and 30 in .308), and always try to stand them on the case head to get the best results. Don't stick your finger in the bath when it is running it will damage your nerve endings. If you want to check it is working use a strip of tin foil held lightly in the centre of the water, it should come out perforated. If a case falls over during a rinse cycle use a bent hair grip or paper clip (about a 3mm hook is all I make it into) in the case mouth to stand it back up. Get a flour sieve or colander to drain/rinse the cases off between acid and neutraliser rinses. When I run the BC rinse I lift the cases out of the beaker rather than try to pour them into something else. I always do a clean water rinse between acid and neutraliser as I find it removes the stuff that sits above the flash hole. Seaclean is also meant to be a very good at removing carbon but I have never tried it. Can't think of anything else. HTH
  2. I use a dry patch before it goes back in the cabinet to remove the loose stuff that the last bullet though leaves behind, that way it reduces the chance of any of it falling back into the action.
  3. Reply to the thread below and buy the press, scale priming tool, case trimmer etc. it is a very good start. The rest you can pick up as you go along. Keep all the cases from your fired rounds and you can reload them.
  4. A teaspoon of citric acid. There is loads of catering stuff very cheap on ebay. Have a read of the below link for a good guide. http://www.6mmbr.com/ultrasonic.html
  5. I bought 1000 of these to try and ring a gong out to 1000 yds just for fun. The rifle is just a bog standard Howa 1500 and I just wanted to try something out of curiosity and because I have time to play. I already had a working load for 168 Grn A Max which works far better than I can out to 600yds. I worked out that something close to 2600fps would be required as this is what I use for the 168 Grn, and previous testing with Sierra 2155 had provided acceptable results. I did all the internet research, and spoke to a few people whom I know use the HBC bullets, and I eventually decided to work up two loads using N140 and N150. I found the lands and settled on a COL of 2.880 (30 thou jump), and using QL I started at 90% case fill with N140 and 95% with N150 and carried out the OCW ladder with six charges in 0.5 Grn increments. All bullets and cases were weighed and batched into 0.02 Grn lots. I found a node in each powder and ran a second OCW with 5 rounds in 0.2 Grn increments going either side of the node and with the target back at 340 Yds. The N150 produced a 0.63 MOA group at 47 Grn with absolutely no pressure signs. The N140 produced a best group of 0.7 MOA at 46.3 Grn but exhibited cratering. I made up another batch of ten rounds and moved the target back to 600 yds. The N150 was still sub MOA and clearly a group but the N140 wasn't a clear group. All told the results were far better than I achieved with 2155's. I never tried them out to anything further, and still have a box and a half of HBC which I will probably never use, as I would need to change the barrel on the Howa to reliably hit the 1000 yrd gong, and I am looking to change to a 6.5 CM next year.
  6. Post #2 is the routine I follow, no matter how little the rifle cost me. If you reload you can use the break in procedure to work up a base load and obviously fire form the cases.
  7. annealing process

    I normally anneal after cleaning then size and trim the cases, then give them a quick spin in the US before drying and loading to remove any debris. I anneal after five firings, but I don't use hot or near hot loads so I am not working the brass too hard.
  8. It could be that as the rifle is new it still requires rounds through it to help it bed in. The barrel normally needs lining with lead from the bullets before it really settles down.
  9. Huge increase in bullet prices

    HSE states shooters powder limit is 10KG A bit of reading below. http://www.hse.gov.uk/explosives/licensing/storage/index.htm
  10. Trigger pull gauge

    I have a digital luggage scale that I have used to check pull weight occasionally, but it takes practice to stop at the break point. Dunc's post sounds like the most accurate method without some expensive strain gauge kit.
  11. .223 data

    Remmy 700 1:9 Twist. N130 would not group, N133 was OK, but N140 suits this bullet in my rifle. SGK 1395 (65Grn) 25Grn N140, Col 2.300. Stunningly accurate for a soft point and will produce 0.5MOA out to 400Yds when I do my bit. Be careful as I have had these pass clean through chest and shoulder shot munties @ 200yds. Work up loads carefully.
  12. How Clean is clean??

    I don't do any competitions, and target shooting for me is just for practice or used for developing new loads. For many years I used to clean each CF with a brush and solvent after every use and the grouping was always consistent. After reading all I could, and listening to others, I changed to just removing the loose powder, with a pull though or dry patch, and wiping down the outside when it got wet or overly dirty. End result was it grouped noticeably better. I still give them a strip down and deep clean once a year, or more if the groups open up, but don't waste time brushing the life out of the barrels every time anymore.
  13. Replying to raptor calls annealing machine

    There was a post on SD about stress relief annealing cartridge brass (comes up on Google) and one post showed using soap as the temperature guide. Interesting read, and the soap is a quick and cheap guide. Even though I use tempillaq I always set up the annealer in a dark room so that I can see the brass start to colour up. Just my OCD I guess. U Tube Vid using soap here.
  14. long range vermin

    I have started using some lower speed loads for my .17 Hornet with 3.7 Grn of Trial Boss behind a 17grn Krank bullet (around 2300fps). The idea being they are good for night work, and accurate out to 150yds, sort of as a reloadable HMR. It is still a WIP but they group MOA or better at 100yds and 1.5" at 150yds, and are quiet enough to use close to farm buildings at night, and around the paddocks, without any complaints. I always carry at least a full mag of full power 20Grn loads with AA1680 behind them, but as most of the night time vermin is within 100yds, the 17Grn performance is close to my HMR, at a lower cost than HMR or .223 subs, and seemingly quieter even though they still crack.
  15. .338 Lapua brass life

    My owned from new Lapua .308 brass is on it's tenth firing and the only cases I have lost are ones that I have dropped out in the field. I anneal my brass after five reloads. My .223 brass (Winchester, FC and a few others) are mostly at 15 reloads. If you don't run hot loads I can't see why it shouldn't last for twenty reloads.

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