Jump to content
UKV - The Place for Precision Rifle Enthusiasts

gruntus

Members
  • Content count

    107
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About gruntus

  • Rank
    Advanced Member

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Fife

Recent Profile Visitors

1,525 profile views
  1. Hi Andrew, Thanks for your info. As above its brand new Lapua brass and have tried with the Lee factory die on both cannelured and non-cannelured bullets. If no-one has ever seen this issue it likely points to (ahem) one person............ I will revisit my crimping method and provide an update. ATB G
  2. Hi Gents, Thanks for the replies. @ Cheshirelad - Quick question, have you ever measured your rounds with a comparator before and after having cycled through the chamber (without firing of course and done in a safe manner)? Do you crimp your rounds? @TerryH, I didn't even know there was a tool for creating a cannelure........😳 You are certainly correct with it being a Tigr SVD. I have used the 182gr Privi factory ammo previously and it is quite "stiff" to shoot as its quite a light rifle (and yes I do have a rubber pad! πŸ˜€). The D166 design looks right but its quite a heavy bullet at 200gr, pity they don't make a junior version. All of the milsurp ammo is circa 150gr (just under IIRC) but has a cannelure and sealant. Hmmmmm, I think I need to go back and review my crimping method............. ATB G
  3. ***Health Warning - All bullets/rounds referenced below have been dummies made up with no primer or propellant in the process *** Hi All, I have a 7.62 x 54R straight-pull Izmash rifle and I am trying to reload for it to try and get a little more accuracy than using bog-standard milsurp (which is about 1.5 to 2 MOA and is apparently the expected accuracy) and also to be able to make ammo if/when supply of factory ammo is erratic. The key issue I have is getting the bullet to remain firmly seated in the case during cycling. It's not immediately obvious when cycling the round but the inertia of the bolt acts just like an inertia bullet puller hammer and the bullet gets pulled from the case. The criteria I have set is to be able to cycle the bolt three times from the straight back bolt release "charge" of the round under the spring tension and for the bullet not to move "out" when simulating a worst-case scenario at the range of having a "Stop Stop Stop" or other event and hence feeling confident that the rounds can be re-chambered a couple of times without concern. I am using new Lapua brass and have tried a few different bullet weights with and without a cannelure including crimping even using a bullet sealant to help its grip. Ideally, I want to use 150grain bullets however nothing has satisfied my criteria. It should be noted that the 7.62 x 54R uses .311 bullets and hence bullet choices are limited. I had managed to get some .311 150gr PPU bullets (B219 heads) from the states which I was hopeful of but unfortunately despite showing a cannelure in the brochure they didn't have them when they arrived. So the key questions are: 1) Does anyone know of a supply of milsurp/standard .311 bullets (heads) between 147 - 150 grain that have a cannelure I could try? 2) For the guys/gals that have straight pulls out there that have a heavy bolt (AK's?) have you noticed this before? Also have you been able to resolve/reduce this? Hopefully, there are a few options out there I can try before giving up and living with factory ammo. 😒 Best regards G ☺️ πŸ‘
  4. gruntus

    Case Lube

    It's no more dirty than any other method, just keep your trays etc clean and free from dirt and grit and you shouldn't have any probs and as Pops sais it doesn't hurt to clean your dies either. First thing you might notice when you go to use it is how thin it is and you could then worry about getting a case stuck (or at least I did!). For the first case into the die I just used a little raw lanolin on my finger and gave the case a thin even covering so that I knew the die would be suitably lubricated. I also use it on the mandrel of my Lyman trimmer when I TTL my cases. I honestly think it's the best lube I've used to date and only use it for its quality not it's cost saving (which is also nice). If you watch the 2nd vid in the link from my earlier post the 6.5 guys state at about 7.15 minutes it's possibly the most consistent they have used. Let us know how you get on. Cheers G
  5. gruntus

    Case Lube

    * Meant to add that if you want to go down the Lanolin route it's quite straight forward. You can order lanolin and alcohol online. I personally mix the appropriate ratio in a smaller "pump" bottle which is able to mist the spray on to your cases. All you then need to do is place your rounds on something like a baking tray and spray them, roll them and spray again until they all have a fine covering. I then give them a quick once over with the wifes hair drier to evaporate the alcohol and your good to go. I did start laying the brass on paper towels but it absorbs the lanolin of course (what a donut) so suggest you just let them roll. You can also use a dedicated plastic container for the brass and lett them roll about inside. Just experiment and see what works for you. πŸ‘ ATB G ☺️
  6. gruntus

    Case Lube

    Hi EB, Depends on the usage for me. +1 on Imperial Sizing Wax when expanding the insides of the necks for neck turning. +1 on RCBS Case lube which I always used to use for full length sizing, easy to wash off. I currently use a DIY solution of Lanolin and Isoppropol Alcohol in a 10:1 ratio (Lanolin being the lower number) which I think is probably the smoothest lube I've used to date. (lots of vids on youtube and an article on the 65 guys https://www.65guys.com/brass-case-resizing-lube/) I now only FL body size cases and Lee collet die for necks. If I didn't have Lanolin and was to pick a single lube off the shelf I would go for RCBS Case Lube 2 using a lube pad (rolling cases in batches of 5 or 10 for even coverage) and a brush for inside the necks if using an expander. HTH G
  7. gruntus

    New Project

    Thanks Ronin, much appreciated. Do you know what velocites you got with that load? I've developed a pet load for 175gr SMK's to date, however, I think the 175s are only good out to 800 yards and I believe that 155 gr scenars perform ok further out to 1000 from what a few people have reported hence the question on velocity. I will start working up a load (safely) with N140. Thanks again. G
  8. gruntus

    New Project

    Hi Ronin and DaveT, Out of curiosity do you recall what length your barrels were? (if you can remember) Just looking to see if there is a correlation with Optimal Barrel Time theory for this load. All the best πŸ‘ G ☺️
  9. gruntus

    Hornady! Again

    Hi Onehole, It really is worth mentioning and Hornady isn't the only culprit! I experienced much the same for Sierra bullets as well (in my case 175gr SMK's .30cal). I would be interested to hear of anyone elses experience with the likes of Bergers. Cheers G
  10. gruntus

    Stainless media drying

    Me too, it's stainless and serves no purpose to dry it. I just wash out the drum with the media in it, tip out as much water without losing any pins then leave it inside the drum (off the tumbler upright) ready for the next batch. ATB G
  11. gruntus

    Flash Hole Deburr Recommendation

    Thanks Steve, thanks NID, I bought the K&M flash hole debur tool from Spud (great service Mark thanks) and put it to use this week. It's great for repeatability and it bottoms out and won't cut any further once its done. Plus side is you don't have to to get cases prepped or uniform for using it (it doesn't index off the neck like the lyman) which means I can choose when to deburr and any point in the case prep process. Whilst I was at it I also got a K&M Primer Pocket uniformer as well (I dont know why I have never had one?), a lovely bit of kit which is a cinch to use. Despite the general vaguaries of actual effectiveness to accuracy (NID you have a valid use case as an example) it has provided a consistent depth for primer seating which cant be a bad thing plus it can be used for cleaning primer pockets as well (again thats another vagary of "worthwhile"). All the best G 😊
  12. gruntus

    Best reloading manual

    Hi Chanory, Typically start at the lowest load listed and work up from there to ensure safe load dev practices are followed, I go by the powder manufacturers min load and cross reference with the bullet manufacturers data and then safely work up from there. HTH G
  13. Hi All, I have found the Lyman flash hole debur tool I use isn't the most consistent given that it has to index off the neck of the case and can be influenced by chamfer etc. I am looking to replace it with a Sinclair or a K&M which don't index and apparently leave a nice consistent chamfer and stop cutting once its job is done. Has anyone had any experience with either of these and recommend or are there any alternatives I haven't thought of? ATB G
  14. gruntus

    Once Fired 308 Lapua Brass - SORTED

    sorted out by Cheshirelad, Top bloke! πŸ‘ G
×

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use and Privacy Policy