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Everything posted by VarmLR

  1. Chargemaster lite or Lyman Gen5 or Gen 6. All are about on par in performance. HPS have had their Chargemaster running day in day out for the last 3 or 4 years and it's still going strong. The only real difference between the Gen 5 and Gen 6 and the Lite and ChargeMaster is that the latter, along with the Gen 5 offer load memory functions whilst the Lite and Gen 6 do not. If you can live with this then the Lite or Gen 6 are the latest generation of load dispensers and about the best. There's a big saving on price too over the fully specified machines. There is one caveat with most of them and that's the load resolution. They tend to all be to 0.1 grains which is ok, right? Nope. Because you don't know if you're loading half a grain over or under sometimes so I trickle up the last 0.1 grain with mine (I set the machine to load to 0.1 grain under than I trickle the last bit until the scale just changes. Consistency depends on powder used. Long, uneven extruded powders don't meter that well with any method as they have a tendency to clump (or have grains cut on throwers). Something like N133 metres very well using my BR3 thrower to the same accuracy as the electronic dispenser just about every time and is quicker to use, so I use the BR3 for all fine extruded powders and spherical grade powders, and the Gen 6 for everything else.
  2. Have a bump on me.....almost tempted myself to this one....I feel another variation coming on!
  3. new .223 time

    I'd agree with that owning both a T3, T3x and a Cz. The CZ in 223 is a great little rifle. As Bradders confirms, the 1/9 isn't suitable for 77gr pills; it's worth considering the 527 with 69 TMKs or similar. Barrel length is the other issue with the 527 for longer distance work. There's a nice example in the classifieds at the minute going for a song. I'm almost tempted to that one myself!
  4. new .223 time

    The only thing which stands out with the Tikka is that the barrel is a little on the short side for much over 600 yds. I shoot 77 TMKs from a 26 inch tube and that's just about ok to 800 yds but not really any further unless I use double base higher energy powders or load the 77's pretty hot! (I have shot it at 1000, but it wasn't ideal). For longer range a 28 inch 1/7 twist would allow you to use 90gr target rounds and maintain more than sufficient velocity. The Tikka's a nice rifle spoilt imho only be the standard long action (with bolt stop for cal) which seems out of place with the little 223 cartridge. I much prefer the short Mauser action of the CZ527 (also worth consideration in heavy/varmint profile with set trigger). Off the shelf there are better choices for a purely target .223, the stand out for me being the Sabatti Tactical MRR with Sabatti's Multi-radial rifling. This is a purpose designed target rifle rather than a typical sporting rifle with a heavy 20/22 inch barrel. These are lovely rifles, very well made and they shoot superbly.
  5. Kit Advice Please!

    Yes, and £70 a pop too! Dave makes really great kit, but it isn't cheap. The hornady is easily enough modified to include for a metal push rod the same as the Shooting Shed one and will probably work just as well. They use the exact same principle. It's a money-no-object check though when the split case method is free and probably gets you as accurate an outcome.
  6. Kit Advice Please!

    Hi Chaz Yes, I think Matt does offer to tap and thread fire formed cases, if you bring one to him or post it.
  7. Kit Advice Please!

    Yes, that's fair comment. I do have the L-N-L COAL gauge but you have to be careful to be very consistent with using it and the plastic pushrod doesn't help as it's all too easy to over tighten and ruin any chance of precision next use. HPS-TR in Newent manufacture replacement steel pushrods for these and will tap your fire formed carts to fit. I just use the Hornady ones because the distance between boltface and bullet to lands measurement should in theory be little different if at all. Having recently checked my 6.5 both ways (ie Hornady case V's chercking oal with a split neck case) with the same bullet, I was within 2 thou of the same average between the two methods. The more repeatable method for Coal which I tend to use as a check is the fire formed cart with the split neck. Works a treat and is cheap as chips as you say.
  8. Kit Advice Please!

    See comments in red. Also consider: MTM or similar load block for holding your cases Miniature bottle brushes for applying lube to inside of case necks bronze brushes for a quick clean of inside of case necks Primer pocket cleaner...Lyman or Lee would do fine Chamfer/deburring tool. You may be better using a VLD type one for the 6.5 or anything else using shallow angle boat tail bullets Lube...Imperial Lanolin wax or Dax 100% Lanolin
  9. sauer 100 keeper

    Activeviii of this parish may be selling his minty T3 synthetic .223 for way under your budget, leaving you enough to go buy some really nice glass and a mod. I can vouch for Activeviii, he's a top bloke and the rifle's fab...I've seen the very tight groups he's put up with that.
  10. 6.5mm varmint bullet choice

    I use 140 SST for longer range (42.4gr RS62) but have yet to try the 95gr Vmax which might replace the SSTs for my vermin control. I used to use TMKs in 223 but they're getting quite expensive now, so I switched back to 60gr Vmax for that.
  11. OCW Target

    Here's another that I did in xlsx. Set to print "fit to page" from jpeg:
  12. OCW Target

    I don't know if it's of any help to anyone but I've developed my own OCW target in A4 printable format. It's here for anyone who wants to use it:
  13. Had my first outing with the PMII (5-25 P4F/CW/CM) today having recently acquired one as a replacement for my Bushnell DMR. I'd already had a play with it, and it was mounted and bore sighted but until today I'd not shot with it. Despite the miserable afternoon spent in a muddy field as the drizzle was blowing towards me from a gusting breeze, it was good to be out with the rifle after a break of a few weeks and after zeroing the scope, I had the chance for a play at different ranges and to check resolution using an internet sourced scope resolution chart and some printed targets with fine writing on them. The scope tracked perfectly for the marginal box test on paper. I'll write it up properly when I get the chance to put a larger board up to test it over a wider range, but today, it performed flawlessly and returned bang on zero. The image was amazing compared with most other scopes used. Perhaps not the brightest I've seen but most certainly the clearest, and edge to edge at that. It was good enough even for my feeble eyes to make out small lettering perhaps 5 or 6mm high from 100 yds. Bullet holes were no problem at all. Detractors can say what they like about the PMII (I wonder how many have actually owned one?). I now understand and appreciate just why its remained a benchmark scope for so long. The P4F ret is perfect. Good enough even when zoomed in to 25x where the centre only covered the centre half of the 6.5mm bullet holes being shot allowing high precision. A wise man once said "Only a rich man can afford to buy cheap glass". That has stuck with me now and I've lost count of the scopes bought over the past 35 years or so, but it's a lot. Anyone entering the discipline of long range shooting would be wise to take that advice on board imho and stretch for the very best glass from the outset rather than fritter away on one "upgrade" after another. Whilst the NF ATACR seems to reign supreme, the PMII seems to be something of a bargain now at over £1000 less for performance that seems only marginally different (optically). Tracking test results to come at the end of the month. (weather permitting!). It's in another league compared with my NSX, obviously one league up again from the DMR (itself remaining a bench mark product imho at its price point) and so far ahead of the M5xi it replaced (rather quickly) that it isn't funny. Buy with absolute confidence.
  14. It doesn't quite work like that but you can just scale accordingly. The results on paper will never be the same since affects of wind, ES, technique etc mean that shooting 1 inch groups at 100 doesn't replicated 2" groups at 200 for that reason. Accuracy tends to open up with distance due to the environmental and external ballistics factors at play. Best you can do is just to scale down the targets as you suggest and use them for practice, or use the standard size and zoom your scope out to get them to half their apparent size compared with your "normal" zoom setting ;-). You can't really simulate 200 or 300m shooting except by shooting 200 or 300m. You can only simulate the target size at 100 as it might appear further out.
  15. If you're wiling to split the Atlas monopod, I'd be interested in that?
  16. Seating Depth Rule of Thumb

    That's an interesting observation Alex and not one that many people seem to pick up on. Neck tension changes can affect pressure sufficiently to alter velocity/barrel time by quite a margin, and by definition, Al's point regarding harmonics. My simplistic take is that whatever the variable force acting to affect pressure and timing, once we understand this and can work with it, we can find combinations that work for a specific bullet in our barrels. Like Al, I have experimented with seating depths and found at least two accuracy nodes by starting 10 thou off lands and working back to 120 thou off using the same charge. I usually find at least two nodes by keeping seating depth the same and altering charge weight, or fine tuned by getting into the ballpark with one and varying the other. I haven't yet tried altering neck tension other than using a Lee Factory crimp die to aid consistency but have noted when I did that I obtained a slight change in pressure and a lowering of ES, so neck tension is yet another variable to understand and play with. I'm not convinced at all that some hybrid bullet designs address the shortcomings (as I view it) of secant designs. The only ones tried have performed much as if they have been pure secant profiles (ie close to lands seems to work best). Be interesting to see what Brian Litz comes back with.
  17. Seating Depth Rule of Thumb

    Great work there Laurie and a very informative read. Many thanks indeed for taking the time and trouble to post this.
  18. I'm a little confused by the recommendations here to splash out up to £2K for an improvement for a rifle that the OP has said he will only shoot perhaps 4 times a year at 1000 yds and for a "bit of fun" rather than competition. There's no need to spend that sort of money to get reliably to 1000 yds...lets put things into a bit of perspective chaps! A factory barrel, especially the 24 inch Tikka and 26 inch Sabatti options are perfectly good enough to shoot to 1000 and well beyond and shoot reliably to moa at that in the right hands with the right loads (I've done it many times myself but am no top rate match shooter). Granted, you see few Tikkas shooting into the "3's or 4's" at 1000 but I have seen one shot very proficiently into the "5's" and "6's", and that is pretty astonishing for any factory rifle. A Tikka Tac took a national 600m title last year as I understand it too, and with group sizes that would put some custom barreled shooters to shame ;-). If this is all that the OP wishes to do, and the rest of the time is shooting at perhaps between 100 to 600 on other ranges/own land, then any of these factory options will be more than good enough. The Tikka TAC A1 or Sabatti STR would be my personal recommendations as very accurate well made factory rifles, preferably in 6.5mm. If keeping your own rifle chap, then there are a few offers on presently for the GRS Decima Sporter stock £350 to £400. That is way better than the Beserk stock (no front end flex!) and a drop in replacement for your rifle. The Fox scope may be optically and mechanically pretty sound, but you are going to struggle with precision at long range using an 8x, so if funds are very tight, look at a Falcon Menace in FFP instead. Sub £400 and about the best LR scope for the money. Add £350 for the GRS stock and a re-barrel and you're looking just sub £1500. You have to ask yourself whether this is money well spent for shooting 4 times a year to 1000 yards. In your shoes, on reflection, I'd put the money into a much better scope, use the rifle you have and see how you get on. Good glass is rarely money wasted and is transferable to another rifle. If you decide you want to do more or that you would like to invest in something more suitable money-wise, then you'll not do better for around £1700 than a Sabatti or tikka Tac A3. I priced up going the custom build route and was looking at £2,300 for a good but basic build. The alternative as already pointed out is t o save a similar amount £1600 to £1700) and at a later date drop your action into a KRG or GRS stock fitted with a custom barrel. Personally, in your shoes, if only shooting 4 times annually to 1000, I'd stick with what you have and buy decent glass. There's more to shooting LR than the value and technical specs of the rifle. Reading the wind well counts for more than the rifle's ability. Getting to grips with producing small ES reloads is also essential, as is shooting technique. Only when these things are proficient, will a much better rifle outfit be of real benefit. All imho of course.
  19. Learning to adjust a scope.

    If you use Warminster IR2, give me a shout.
  20. 6.5x47 140 eldm

    I'm getting good results from Hornady SST 140's from a 6.5CM using RS62. Some are put off by the cannelure but shouldn't be. They're accurate bullets and a lot cheaper than the 140 ELDs. The alternative in a cheap high BC bullet is the 139 Scenar which also shoots well in 6.5s using RS62. I'm getting good accuracy at around 2650fps from a 24" barrel, and there's another accuracy node at around 2750fps from the same barrel length.
  21. Reloading with Rosie

    Nice to watch a pro at work
  22. Swiss Load Data

    My apologies to the OP for the thread drift; as a fair few have PM'd me asking for a summary of my load data, I've listed it below for information only. Please do not attempt to load to what I have listed as maximum loads without starting low and working up, as per the norms. Please also note that load data for SR/small flash hole brass will NOT be the same as for LR brass. Do not attempt to replicate SR brass loads using LR brass as you'll likely go over-pressure: .308/RS50 24 inch barrel/1:11 TR/CCI200 Large rifle primers/Lapua brass; 4 times fired 175 TMK, COAL 2.800 Start load: 41.5gr Max Load: 45gr (hot, sticky bolt, best avoided) Accuracy nodes: 43.0gr/2600fps/0.219” group@100yds 43.8gr/2640fps/0.542” group@100yds 44.2gr/2666fps/0.36” group @100yds 44.6gr/2677fps/0.31” group@100yds OCW data: Pressure insensitive region: 43.8 to 44.2gr: Low ES 16 (badly prepped brass hence higher than ideal) 6.5CM 24 inch barrel/1:8TR/Murom SR Magnum primers/Lapua SR Once fired brass 139 Scenar, COAL: 2.842 (0.030 to lands) Start load: 41gr Max load: 44.6gr (Compressed) Accuracy node: 44gr/2630fps/ES16/0.25” group @ 100 yds ave (best @ 0.18”) Please note: DO NOT attempt to replicate these loads using Large Rifle primer brass. These loads were developed using Small Rifle/small flash hole Lapua brass (Case capacity 52.5gr H20)
  23. Swiss Load Data

    RS50 is closer to N140, being re-branded TR140, but seems to exhibit a more linear velocity with charge rate closer to max pressures from my own testing, meaning that it doesn't suffer pressure spiking to anything like the same degree. RS62 is closer in burn rate I think to H4350 and to Viht N150 (Hogdon heat of explosion being 3,760 kJ/kg and RS62 being 3750) Varget AFAIK is a higher energy powder than RS50. I have had excellent results from RS50 in .308 and RS62 seems pretty comparible in 6.5CM to H4350 in terms of suitability and accuracy, at least it has been with the bullets that I have tried it with (139 Scenar and 140 SST). It's a little more expensive than Viht but delivers better results than N150 (at least in my rifles).
  24. Swiss Load Data


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