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VarmLR

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Everything posted by VarmLR

  1. I just use my rifle scope. It has no problem resolving bullet holes at 200 yds at all. I have a spotting scope too, one of the top of the range Hawke ones which is good (I can read a number plate at half a mile with it when atmospherics allow) but it's not as good as one of the older Kowas which would be my pick of the bunch. They've been doing spotting scopes, theodolites, and military ranging optics for donkeys' years. Newer ones I've looked through don't seem as good. However, once I'd upgraded to a PMII, the spotting scope was redundant for ranges to 300 yards.
  2. VarmLR

    6.5 Creedmoor Load Data

    RS70 may be a little slow burning for the 6.5. RS62 shares similar characteristics to H4350 which was the defacto "go to" powder for the 6.5 until REACH came along and works well with my 123 to 140gr bullets. Primers can affect both MV and consistency. With such slippery bullets, consistency is more important than the chase for high velocity which whilst always useful to limit wind drift, is not the be-all and end all with these bullets. My best shooting at 1000yds has involved velocities of around 2700fps with the 139 scenar and the sweet spot seems to be from 2700fps to 2800fps with the 139 bullet. Using SR primers, ignition energy is significantly lower than with the LR primers, and it pays to try various primers. CCI are ok (CCI250 or BR4) but you also have the choice of the Remington 7 1/2 benchrest primers, Murom KVB-223M (don't be tempted to the standard KVB223 unless you want pierced primers and/or gas-cut bolt faces!) and Federal 205M all of which seem popular amongst the LR shooters. The other thing to note is any variance between powder batches. I have found RS62 fairly consistent between batches but it is a crudely extruded powder with some large and uneven extrusions in the pot so taking extra care when measuring charges with that powder is a must. Viht N150/N160 seems better in that respect.
  3. Their shooting activities I understand may be suspended as they await a renewal of H/O approval.
  4. General licence for crow only released. https://www.gov.uk/government/news/new-general-licence-for-controlling-carrion-crows-comes-into-force No mention of magpie, rook, jackdaw or any other corvid...just carrion crow.
  5. VarmLR

    Get your Crow License here....

    General licence now issued for crow only. No general Corvid licence which is barmy.
  6. VarmLR

    Cheytac .375

    I was thinking more "John..."
  7. VarmLR

    6.5 Creedmoor Load Data

    If RS....email them with your requirements and they'll run a QL prediction for you to get you started. With that twist, to make the most of high BC bullets, perhaps look at the 139/140gr bullets/RS62/CCI400 or if going the small primer brass route, Murom KVB-223Magnum or Remmy 7.5 or CCI250 primers. For Brass there's Starline & Lapua both of which are popular. With the longer barrel, you might want to look at Viht N160 with the heavier bullets. My own choice of bullets is Lapua Scenar 139gr. I have found them consistent and accurate. Nostler competition also worth a look. From Sierra, I'd be looking at the #1740 140gr or even the 123gr #1727 driven fast. I have loads of data for the 139gr Scenar/RS62 but in a shorter (24") barrel.
  8. VarmLR

    155gr Lapua Scenar load for F Class

    In which case why not load some more up at that plus 0.1 either side...pick the best and play with seating depth? I must admit, every time I use some neck tension uniforming (Lee factory crimp) it almost always results in better consistency of shots.
  9. I doubt that Strelok is at fault as the maths is sound. What isn't are (generally) BC figures which are approximations based on form factors for either out-dated projectiles or crude approximations for the bullets you shoot. These are often incorrectly quoted by bullet makers. There's no "one BC" for all ranges as changes in velocity affect the BC. Strelok has functionality that allows G7 BC multiple figures to be used (using multiple values of BC over distance/with changes in velocity) which need verification at your distance, by measuring drops at say 300, 600 and 1000yds. You can then true the BC or the velocity in Strelok. I have tuned mine using the G7 multi-bc values then adjusted MVs and have found strelok to be very precise now when I want to shoot that load at any distance from 200 to 1000 yds. Last outing at 600m and strelok got me to within 0.2 MRads of correct elevation first shot on target which wasn't great but had I re-entered MV from the latest batch of powder, I would have found that it would have been more accurate, possibly within 0.1MRads. There's other considerations such as temperature effects on powder, atmospheric pressure, spindrift etc etc. By and large Strelock does a good job, as do many of the competitor ballistic solutions. You just have to learn their individual peculiarities and work with them.
  10. VarmLR

    155gr Lapua Scenar load for F Class

    Pops is correct. The only meaningful way to set COAL is from the case head to the ogive...that's all that matters provided it will mag feed. The Hornady bullet comparitor will help you here. It doesn't matter that the meplat to base is different as that isn't referencing to the lands, your ogive is. Also, if I may offer some observations Michal. Your conclusions RE the loads are a little wayward. You can't judge a load purely on group size. At distance, vertical dispersion matters, not just group size unless it is quite obviously opening up. There can be many reasons for increase in horizontal grouping from trigger technique to wind effects etc. Look instead at group centres, ES and vertical dispersion. Re-assessing your groups this way, your centre two targets look to be on the node, so if this correlates to 25.4/25.6 then you have a wider latitude than you think, and try the centre of this and then play a little with seating depth if you must, but to my eye, your ES figures look pretty good (are they in M/s?). There's another thread going that discusses accuracy discrepancies and tolerances. Your chronograph and scales both have tolerances of probably 0.5 to 1% or thereabouts so applied to your MV, your ES could be half as much in reality or twice as much. Look for patterns, and read the groups...your tightest vertical ones on the photos are the two centre ones. That's where I'd be concentrating.
  11. VarmLR

    Defiance / Eliseo 6.5x47 OCW

    2730 too slow for what though? It should be good enough for that high BC bullet to remain above transonic at 1000 yds. I think I shoot mine closer to 2700fps and get some very acceptable results. Others I shoot with have had equally good results at closer to 2800fps, but 2700 seems acceptable for informal target practice. You get marginally less wind drift at 1000 by dropping MV from 2800fps to 2700fps which may or may not matter to you.
  12. VarmLR

    Defiance / Eliseo 6.5x47 OCW

    37.3gr N140 seems to be a good node....not much MV difference one charge up or down, low ES and low vertical dispersion. That's the load I'd probably shoot.
  13. VarmLR

    Tikka CTR - Super Varmint

    I'd advise slightly differently. Don't buy a heavy barreled varmint or CTR for hunting, buy a sporting profile and shed the extra mass. You'll thank yourself, trust me. I'd go with a Shultz & Larsen personally for boar/deer in 270 or .308 and then buy a 6.5 of some flavour for target. The whole point of the 6.5, especially in CM flavour, is that long for calibre high BC bullets can be shot way under the velocities needed with a .308 and still get you way beyond 1000 yds above transonic. The .308 will shoot to 1000yds, just don't expect much precision from a 20 inch barrel...way too short to generate decent performance at 1000. Fine for steel basing and having fun, but for target, there's a reason serious comp shooters use 30 to 32 inch barrels in .308.
  14. VarmLR

    .22 zero problem

    Start with the "wiggle test" as someone once advised me many years back (a reference to diagnosing engine faults where before stripping things down you wiggle all the wires to check for loose connections!). Check bedding screws are to correct torque, then check mounts, then check mod is tight. If it is, remove the mod and check the crown of the rifle...any damage there?. I once cleaned my 77/22 Ruger which could shoot eley subs into an inch at 100 yds. It doesn't any more....more like 3 inches on a good day. I never clean it now...may take many rounds through before it does! The wax coating on bullets protects the barrel from much fowling up. I occasionally run a patch or bore snake through it but that's all. If none of that works, try different ammo. Before you do, try swapping the scopes over...it's not inconceivable that the scope may have a faulty turret...stays on zero for a few but then goes off.
  15. VarmLR

    HbN users: what's your cleaning regime?

    You need to take up knitting and hand your wife your rifle collection Lol! 🤣 Impressive stuff.
  16. VarmLR

    New barrel breaking in

    That's impressive from a new barrel on factory ammo This was my own attempt on my first home loads for the CM, at 100 yds. 6.4mm centre to centre/13mm edge to edge. (.25 moa). 4 shots only though so extrapolated would probably have been twice that at 12 shots. My rifle seems to love the 139 scenar.
  17. VarmLR

    New barrel breaking in

    ...but only if you first coat the barrel and bullets in go faster dust....no, that was naughty....must not stir the pot, I must not stir the pot
  18. VarmLR

    HbN users: what's your cleaning regime?

    ...but respectfully, it could be submitted that in all probability had b*gger all to do with what the barrel was coated in and more to do with your girlfriends competency and the consistency of your loads.
  19. VarmLR

    New barrel breaking in

    +1. I do clean when new to remove proof house and factory group test powder residue, then shoot until I see evidence of coppering before cleaning, and repeat as often as necessary. I find that all my barrels have "speeded up" through the first few hundred rounds before settling down but as you say, it takes that long anyway to learn how to shoot properly, and I never worry about load dev' until that point.
  20. VarmLR

    New barrel breaking in

    What powder IS best for me 6.5 CM and will it aid "running in"? 😂
  21. VarmLR

    HbN users: what's your cleaning regime?

    In military applications, barrel life isn't as important as minimising the cleaning regime requirements and keeping things clean and oiled after training or between firefights. Your arse is kicked if you're caught with a filthy barrel and likely kicked harder if you used anything that could attract grit and grime in a barrel. I can't ever see the military adopting any barrel rifling coating product...they just change barrels when needed. In civvy street, the gun scene is very much like the hifi scene. After-market wonder aids making claims, however well substantiated usually result in controversy and circular arguments. In hifi it's pixie dust and interconnect cables sprinkled with the stuff, or magic potion to treat connections. In the rifle world, moly coated bullets and barrel life extender aids. There may or may not be merit to these things. To those who've spent the money and read the accolades, and who, perhaps have found their own merits using the stuff, then that's justification enough. To many of us there's just too many other variables to concern ourselves with already and adding to cost and cleaning regime isn't something I'd opt for. If I want to shoot better and preserve barrel life, I lower charge weight, avoid rapid shot strings and practice to get better.
  22. VarmLR

    Quick DIY Annealing Question

    I use a raptor machine and propane gas with the torch flame at the hottest point just onto the neck of the case mid point. Time for 308W is 4.5 seconds, time for 6.5CM is 4 seconds. I have used tempilaq 650 to check timings and re-tested on lots of case samples (tumbled and deprimed). All show the same indicator. In a dark room, the neck just starts glowing cherry red. In daylight, the flame the far side of the neck turns yellow for approx 1 second or less prior to the end of the annealing but the brass doesn't appear to glow (you only see this in a darkened room). Tempilaq just starts turning black on the inside of the necks. I don't bother using it at all now as for all my calibres/cases, the exact same test revealed the exact same thing so for any brass batch now, I try a sample case in a darkened room and the instant I see a dull cherry red glow form, that's the timing selected for that batch. I had started doing this without tempilaq until I was shouted down by others who knew better, but all it's proved to me is that the exact same results are obtained, same timings, so I'm happy to continue doing it this way and leave the tempilaq sat on a shelf.
  23. VarmLR

    New barrel breaking in

    +1 I've always done this myself. I always regarded "running in" the wrong term. It's not an engine. My understanding is that most decent modern barrels (including factory) do not need lapping or any other abrasive compound, nor would I repeat the "shoot 1, clean one" method again, as I was advised when buying my first rifle many years ago. Now, I simply run some carbon cleaner through from new to remove proof load muck, shoot it until I can see copper residue forming at the muzzle end (this was obvious to a blind man for my 6.5) which happened after maybe a dozen or so of the first shots, then clean it with carbon and copper remover (no brass brushes) until it's back to bare metal, then shoot it again. Usually by the time I've put 30 or 40 rounds through I have cleaned two, maybe three times. After that I just shoot it and clean whenever I see any copper build up...the intervals start to get longer. I think after I'd put 50 or 60 rounds through, the next copper cleaning wasn't until I'd shot 40 or 50 rounds more. Now I clean with copper remover perhaps every 50 to 75 rounds and carbon cleaner every time I shoot whether that's one bullet or 75.
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