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About VarmLR

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  1. VarmLR

    Which electronic powder thrower/dispenser

    Deja-vu. This has all been covered in detail RE electronic loaders (search function is your friend😉). Mine has the addition of a Shooting Shed "thingy" added to improve uniformity and reduce the tendency of powders to clump towards the slow trickle at the end of each throw. It has halved or less my loading time so worthwhile over beamn scales. They remain more accurate but no-one really needs to be loading to half kernel accuracy...or even kernel accuracy come to that!
  2. Well spotted Bradders! I take back my last comment as this ^^^^ might explain the lack of signatories...
  3. Signed. At just 6700 signatures so far, not many shooters seem that bothered. I do wish some people would wake up and smell the coffee...our rights are being eroded drip by drip by drip. Please sign the thing if not already done.
  4. VarmLR

    Which electronic powder thrower/dispenser

    I use a modded Lyman Gen 6. Absolutely zero complaints. Shot my best ever 600m score with loads thrown from the Lyman. You can pick them up for around the £250 mark and they're equally good as the RCBS on consistency, and better imho in other respects of design. you pays your money and makes your choice. For short grained powders I swear by my Redding BR3 thrower. With practice, it can throw every load to within 0.1 with some powders....just avoid using longer grained propellants as like most other "match grade" throwers (irrespective of price), they can chop the grains, and be sensitive to sudden crunches when doing so which causes inaccuracy of charge. For speed it's hard to touch the electronic throwers. I've halved or less the time needed for loading. Used to go the beam scale and trickle but honestly, 0.05 to 0.1gr makes b*gger all difference to loads that I've tested for ES. In fact the best ES I ever recorded in a batch of ammunition was loaded using the Lyman, so all this half kernel load nonsense is just that...nonsense, unless each and every case is identical in volume....which they wont be.
  5. VarmLR

    Favourite Hunting Knife

    So basically, you haven't answered s single point raised Bye bye
  6. You can't have a fraction of a click. If you enter 1/4moa turrets, one click is, err, one click (1/4moa). I guess that's what you mean? Don't know why it shows a decimal place to the right of the "26" since it can only be a whole number.
  7. VarmLR

    Favourite Hunting Knife

    OK...I'll bite 😁 That is the very last shape and size of knife (Looks big) that I'd choose for deerstalking. I would also not use a nice smooth (slippery when wet) wooden (unhygenic?) handle. Where do we start? Blade shape is wrong...blade is too long imho for skinning duties and that deep belly may be handy for cutting up hefty lumps of meat but you woudn't insert that into an animal as a draw to part the skin without slicing up half the insides...perhaps it would be better on heffalumps? Blade thickness way too thick and heavy for my liking. I use Moras, have a Hella Harding and a custom blade similar to the Mora but in much better steel that holds an edge far longer. Also, there is no mention of the steel used for that knife, what the hardening and tempering process is (many Chrome Vanadium steels these days use very specialist heat treatment). If you're attempting to sell a knife, where is the information on the knife? Size? Steel? sharpening angle(s)? Tempering process? Handle material? Handle fitment? Price? You'll need to try a little harder my friend...after all you're posting on a site with more than its fair share of seasoned hunters who know a thing or two when it comes to knife selection and use. Also, can you state categorically, for the record, that despite what your company info states, that knife shown is made here from start to finish in the UK? Little point in posting further really until these things have been addressed without drawing less than favourable comments. We're a fair minded bunch as long as no-one is trying to pull the wool over our eyes and respect is given where respect is due.
  8. T3x varmint in GRS laminate stock suits some very well indeed. I have an older T3 in a GRS and without bedding it has resulted in an extremely comfortable LR shooting platform. I many ways, it's more comfortable and has better ergonomics than the TAC A1, but if I had to choose just one of my rifles for LR work, it would be the TAC A1 in 6.5CM all day long. Some previous comments on bluing etc I guess stand for most rifles. Take care of it and it'll likely outlast you. I wipe mine down with acf50 every now and then and it still looks brand new, all bar some minor bluing rubbing off on the mag which is what I'd exp[ect to happen with a contact point anyway. The TAC A1 in CM had issues surrounding the lack of under-cutting of the mod thread (thread finished a few mm from the shoulder which was an unforgivable oversight by Tikka) resulting in some mods not screwing on concentrically. I had this issues and rather than use the GMK supplied solution (compression washers) I had the thread properly undercut and to make doubly sure of zero issues, use a 30 cal mod. Sound reduction isn't significantly affected...some slight decrease in reduction but not noticeable really,and no discernable difference in recoil. I use the TAC for occasional field work too (not deer stalking) and its light enough imho to carry without any real issues. I have used the T3 varmint in GRS laminate for deer stalking, heavy that it is, and as long as you're not tabbing miles back with a deer in tow, it's perfectly fine.
  9. Whatever you can shoot accurately irrespective of calibre. CF Calibre is immaterial as long as you can hit at what you're aiming at and it carries sufficient energy downrange. I like .223 for its versatility and economy.
  10. Quite simply, it could well be that the load doesn't suit your rifle as I'm assuming that Matt can't really load develop for customers due to practicalities. There is one other trick left to try. Find out who shoots this bullet with your barrel length and twist and find what load they developed for it. Then ask Matt to try the same providing it is within safe parameters. The bullet is very jump tolerant so keeping it to mag length will be fine. FWIW my accuracy load is 24.6gr RS50 and the same for N140 both seated to mag length for a 26 inch 1/8 twist 223.. Other than that, try other factory loads at 200 and 300 yds. If you get one that out performs the one you have then it rules out kit issues and confirms load issues.
  11. Yes, sorry...got my 50 and 52 the wrong way around. It's confusing because it's the opposite of the slower burning RS62 (single base) and RS60 (higher energy powder) hence I often mix up my 50 and 52! Must admit Mark that I have found the opposite with the 155's. I found that the newer higher BC #2156 much less jump tolerant and the older #2155 much more tolerant. In fact I can load that to mag lenngth and it happily jumps the 50 thou to the lands and produces very tight groups. Not so the #2156! If not comp shooting and just in it for a bit of fun and experience, the venerable old 190 will do the job just fine and can be reliably shot from a 1/11 twist. Better still might be the Berger Juggernaut with its impressive 0.74 G1 BC. Trouble is, at £62-odd per 100, it's now far from economical to shoot compared with the £36/100 smk option!
  12. I'd second the Burris Zee Signature rings for ensuring proper alignment. They're a very elegant and well made engineering solution. I've been using them in the newer Zee Tactical Signature Extreme guise for a while now on a TAC A1 and don't recall having to dial much, if any, windage allowance to zero. They have the added advantage that whilst they will not increase overall scope adjustment range, they do allow vertical and horizontal offsets whilst maintaining proper scope barrel alignment without any consideration to lapping. From memory, vertical alignment offset can be as much as 40 or 45moa using these so they will get many rifles out a very long way! I have mine set at 20moa increase in place of using a 20moa rail, and am easily able to maintain a 100yd zero (PMII). There are other options available, such as the more expensive fully adjustable one piece mounts on offer like the ERA-TAC model manufactured by Recknagel. These have advantages that any slight errors on your dovetail mounts can effectively be dialled out to allow perfect alignment of the scope, and whilst they can be dialled for acheiving POI, they're designed more as a dial to compensate for error then lock-off solution. They still though have the added advantage that they also offer various degrees of elevation increase...more than enough to get some rifles out beyond 2000 yards and unlike other moa solutions, this type can offer increased moa range, not just a lift in zero with no moa range increase. There's a USA based company selling the best one I've seen that claims to allow a 100yd zero but then you can use the mount to dial you out to 3/4 off a mile! Can't recall the name but a guy at one of my clubs has one. The Sako mount design issues just smacks of creating several new problems to solve something that other manufacturers don't see the need for by going to tapered dovetails, and the alleged machining errors on the stop-pins doesn't engender any confidence if true. It all seems to add up to a Heath Robinson solution to a problem that wouldn't exist with a little more thought and care in design and manufacture. My money would be on the scope being fine and the real issue more than likely the standard Sako mounting system. As above, the good news is that there are plenty of solutions. I think the Zee Siggy Extremes cost me around £120
  13. Yes. People often beat themselves up about group sizes and chase tiny ES figures getting really anal about reloading, paying scant attention to bullet choice. It's not just important, it's critical, especially where shooting in competition, to pick the right bullet. We were shooting 600m today and several were using 20 inch .223's with 77gr smks. No shortage of Vee bulls. Light winds helped, but so did using the right twist with 77gr smks driven reasonably hard which was all that was needed to place a good percentage in the "4" ring. By contrast, those of us using 6.5s were landing about the same proportion in the veebull( and that is exactly what should be expected from 6.5s!). 223 is more than capable at 600yds...it's pushing out much beyond that where it can get very sketchy, very quickly, with slower twist rifles and lighter, shorter bullets, especially when wind is thrown into the equation. As Mark says above, at 600, on a reasonable day on a flat range, to scatter 223's across the target would suggest that something, somewhere, is not right. I would argue that perhaps the 69smk is not ideal at that range...the 77gr HPBT being by far the better choice. I would suggest that rather than a kit issue it could perhaps be a combination bullet and trigger technique where the spotlight should fall. As an example, when dropping a large proportion of 6.5s into the centre, I wondered what effects at that range that slight trigger technique changes would make. I deliberately altered my trigger pull a little, and reckon that whilst still concentrating on the sight picture, breathing and body position, by adapting a technique change such as gripping a little firmer with the thumb on the grip or pulling the trigger with a slightly fuller reach, in both cases it opened up groups from around 4 or 5 inches to around 8 (ie from centre ring to 4 ring). It also pulled them off a little to one side. That was deliberate but still trying to keep things steady. Don't under estimate the importance of both bullet choice and technique...both play a huge part in consistency and precision.
  14. I'll buck the trend here and say that unless you can launch the older #2155 at 3000fps, 1000 yds is going to be marginal on terminal velocity and stability. I shoot .308 with a 24 inch 1/11 and the best results at 1000 have been for me using 190smks driven at 2600fps. It wasn't optimal, but I used N140 which was a little too fast burning, but I did achieve consistent results and a good number of Vee bulls. with 155's and 140, I have load developed up to 45gr N140 before I got any pressure signs and that was delivering just shy of 2900fps. Be warned though, as temperatures climb, N140 is notorious for pressure spiking as it isn't very temperature stable, so if loading towards the top end of the ladder to drive lighter, shorter bullets faster to maintain velocities above transonic at target, you're better advised to look towards Reload Swiss RS52 (single base) or RS50. The latter gives better velocites at the cost of higher energy burn (increased barrel erosion over RS52 but only if you stack it up high). My advice would be to look towards using either the 175 TMK, Lapua Scenar L 175gr, or smk 190. All of those will be far better suited to 1000 yds than the #2155. The alternative in 155gr might be the #2156 Palma with its 0.51 G1 BC (2700fps or more). Driven at 2850 to 2900fps it would be a far better bet than the BC inferior #2155 but only if you have a chamber throated to allow its secant ogive profile to be close and personal with the lands as experience shows that it isn't particularly jump tolerant. All said and done, I reckon for informal and occasional 1000yd foray use, the 190smk remains a very good choice and doesn;t need to be driven especially hard. The 168s if you look at them (from other suppliers as well as Sierra) have a large proportion of designs with steeper boat tail angles, and were, I understand, developed more for 600yd competition use. I haven't found and 168 as stable at 1000 as either their 175 or 190 stablemates with shallower boat tail angles. That may not be universally true so check boat tail angles before taking the plunge.
  15. Your other option may be to see if the new 2 stage T3x trigger can be fitted to the older T3. No problem with 2 stage for hunting. First stage just takes up the slack in the pull. Out of interest, what don't you like about the standard T3 trigger? It's pretty good as factory triggers go...have you tried adjusting it for a lower clean break than factory standard?

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