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About VarmLR

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  1. Quite simply, it could well be that the load doesn't suit your rifle as I'm assuming that Matt can't really load develop for customers due to practicalities. There is one other trick left to try. Find out who shoots this bullet with your barrel length and twist and find what load they developed for it. Then ask Matt to try the same providing it is within safe parameters. The bullet is very jump tolerant so keeping it to mag length will be fine. FWIW my accuracy load is 24.6gr RS50 and the same for N140 both seated to mag length for a 26 inch 1/8 twist 223.. Other than that, try other factory loads at 200 and 300 yds. If you get one that out performs the one you have then it rules out kit issues and confirms load issues.
  2. Yes, sorry...got my 50 and 52 the wrong way around. It's confusing because it's the opposite of the slower burning RS62 (single base) and RS60 (higher energy powder) hence I often mix up my 50 and 52! Must admit Mark that I have found the opposite with the 155's. I found that the newer higher BC #2156 much less jump tolerant and the older #2155 much more tolerant. In fact I can load that to mag lenngth and it happily jumps the 50 thou to the lands and produces very tight groups. Not so the #2156! If not comp shooting and just in it for a bit of fun and experience, the venerable old 190 will do the job just fine and can be reliably shot from a 1/11 twist. Better still might be the Berger Juggernaut with its impressive 0.74 G1 BC. Trouble is, at £62-odd per 100, it's now far from economical to shoot compared with the £36/100 smk option!
  3. I'd second the Burris Zee Signature rings for ensuring proper alignment. They're a very elegant and well made engineering solution. I've been using them in the newer Zee Tactical Signature Extreme guise for a while now on a TAC A1 and don't recall having to dial much, if any, windage allowance to zero. They have the added advantage that whilst they will not increase overall scope adjustment range, they do allow vertical and horizontal offsets whilst maintaining proper scope barrel alignment without any consideration to lapping. From memory, vertical alignment offset can be as much as 40 or 45moa using these so they will get many rifles out a very long way! I have mine set at 20moa increase in place of using a 20moa rail, and am easily able to maintain a 100yd zero (PMII). There are other options available, such as the more expensive fully adjustable one piece mounts on offer like the ERA-TAC model manufactured by Recknagel. These have advantages that any slight errors on your dovetail mounts can effectively be dialled out to allow perfect alignment of the scope, and whilst they can be dialled for acheiving POI, they're designed more as a dial to compensate for error then lock-off solution. They still though have the added advantage that they also offer various degrees of elevation increase...more than enough to get some rifles out beyond 2000 yards and unlike other moa solutions, this type can offer increased moa range, not just a lift in zero with no moa range increase. There's a USA based company selling the best one I've seen that claims to allow a 100yd zero but then you can use the mount to dial you out to 3/4 off a mile! Can't recall the name but a guy at one of my clubs has one. The Sako mount design issues just smacks of creating several new problems to solve something that other manufacturers don't see the need for by going to tapered dovetails, and the alleged machining errors on the stop-pins doesn't engender any confidence if true. It all seems to add up to a Heath Robinson solution to a problem that wouldn't exist with a little more thought and care in design and manufacture. My money would be on the scope being fine and the real issue more than likely the standard Sako mounting system. As above, the good news is that there are plenty of solutions. I think the Zee Siggy Extremes cost me around £120
  4. Yes. People often beat themselves up about group sizes and chase tiny ES figures getting really anal about reloading, paying scant attention to bullet choice. It's not just important, it's critical, especially where shooting in competition, to pick the right bullet. We were shooting 600m today and several were using 20 inch .223's with 77gr smks. No shortage of Vee bulls. Light winds helped, but so did using the right twist with 77gr smks driven reasonably hard which was all that was needed to place a good percentage in the "4" ring. By contrast, those of us using 6.5s were landing about the same proportion in the veebull( and that is exactly what should be expected from 6.5s!). 223 is more than capable at 600yds...it's pushing out much beyond that where it can get very sketchy, very quickly, with slower twist rifles and lighter, shorter bullets, especially when wind is thrown into the equation. As Mark says above, at 600, on a reasonable day on a flat range, to scatter 223's across the target would suggest that something, somewhere, is not right. I would argue that perhaps the 69smk is not ideal at that range...the 77gr HPBT being by far the better choice. I would suggest that rather than a kit issue it could perhaps be a combination bullet and trigger technique where the spotlight should fall. As an example, when dropping a large proportion of 6.5s into the centre, I wondered what effects at that range that slight trigger technique changes would make. I deliberately altered my trigger pull a little, and reckon that whilst still concentrating on the sight picture, breathing and body position, by adapting a technique change such as gripping a little firmer with the thumb on the grip or pulling the trigger with a slightly fuller reach, in both cases it opened up groups from around 4 or 5 inches to around 8 (ie from centre ring to 4 ring). It also pulled them off a little to one side. That was deliberate but still trying to keep things steady. Don't under estimate the importance of both bullet choice and technique...both play a huge part in consistency and precision.
  5. I'll buck the trend here and say that unless you can launch the older #2155 at 3000fps, 1000 yds is going to be marginal on terminal velocity and stability. I shoot .308 with a 24 inch 1/11 and the best results at 1000 have been for me using 190smks driven at 2600fps. It wasn't optimal, but I used N140 which was a little too fast burning, but I did achieve consistent results and a good number of Vee bulls. with 155's and 140, I have load developed up to 45gr N140 before I got any pressure signs and that was delivering just shy of 2900fps. Be warned though, as temperatures climb, N140 is notorious for pressure spiking as it isn't very temperature stable, so if loading towards the top end of the ladder to drive lighter, shorter bullets faster to maintain velocities above transonic at target, you're better advised to look towards Reload Swiss RS52 (single base) or RS50. The latter gives better velocites at the cost of higher energy burn (increased barrel erosion over RS52 but only if you stack it up high). My advice would be to look towards using either the 175 TMK, Lapua Scenar L 175gr, or smk 190. All of those will be far better suited to 1000 yds than the #2155. The alternative in 155gr might be the #2156 Palma with its 0.51 G1 BC (2700fps or more). Driven at 2850 to 2900fps it would be a far better bet than the BC inferior #2155 but only if you have a chamber throated to allow its secant ogive profile to be close and personal with the lands as experience shows that it isn't particularly jump tolerant. All said and done, I reckon for informal and occasional 1000yd foray use, the 190smk remains a very good choice and doesn;t need to be driven especially hard. The 168s if you look at them (from other suppliers as well as Sierra) have a large proportion of designs with steeper boat tail angles, and were, I understand, developed more for 600yd competition use. I haven't found and 168 as stable at 1000 as either their 175 or 190 stablemates with shallower boat tail angles. That may not be universally true so check boat tail angles before taking the plunge.
  6. Your other option may be to see if the new 2 stage T3x trigger can be fitted to the older T3. No problem with 2 stage for hunting. First stage just takes up the slack in the pull. Out of interest, what don't you like about the standard T3 trigger? It's pretty good as factory triggers go...have you tried adjusting it for a lower clean break than factory standard?
  7. VarmLR

    6.5 variants

    Imbeciles. Perhaps on such applications, the applicant should simply include a metric to imperial converter for the poor loves.
  8. Compressed loads? Seems like quite a high charge. I know that 260 rem has a little more case capacity than Creedmoor but effective case capacity is similar as the bullets tend to be seated deeper. At 44.6gr I'm into quite compressed loads with the Creedmoor. I'd expect 2800fps at between 42,5 and 43gr RS62 in the CM with large primer brass so not at all surprised that you're getting those velocities...seems like quite high pressure loadings? If so, I'd be backing right off!
  9. I'd agree with the above. Try it again at 300 yds after cleaning as this should dispel any worries about the scope, but maybe worth also doing a scope tracking test as well. I've had something similar at Century when shooting 69TMKs. Slight weather change threw what started as reasonable grouping from my sub 2800fps load all over the shop despite terminal velocity being theoretically well above transonic. You don't mention whether you had a mod fitted or not (assume not?). If you did, had this come loose?
  10. VarmLR

    Tikka T3x prone to rusting?

    Yes, that's a fair point. I tried some when the stuff first came out was quite impressed but I think that ACF just has the edge and it cleans up slightly rusted areas better.
  11. VarmLR

    Tikka T3x prone to rusting?

    No snakes were used in the making of this 😉 ACF50 (as you should know as a biker) is also very good indeed, if pricey. Here's a link to a controlled test where many such products were evaluated. https://www.bennetts.co.uk/bikesocial/reviews/products/the-best-motorcycle-corrosion-protectants/tested-xcp-rust-blocker-corrosion-protectant-review
  12. A mate of mine had the exact same dillemma and ended up buying a .308. He travels to Africa every year and has had no problems dropping medium plains game with the venerable old .308 plus its used for target plinking and large lowland deer in the UK. Ammo available just about everywhere. Shot placement and the right bullet see off many arguments about the .308 being under-gunned. Personally, I'd say that the T3x Varmint, S&L Victory or Blaser R8 would be good off the shelf options. Slap on a PM2 and you're good to go. Save the money for beer tokens and ammo.
  13. VarmLR

    Tikka T3x prone to rusting?

    There's a better and slightly cheaper alternative to acf, Chaz, calledXCP Professional Rust Blocker. In tests, it outperforms just about anything else on the market for rust prevention and is safe to use on firearms. I use it for liberally coating the underside of my SUV to prevent our winter salt laden roads corroding the sub frame and suspension arms. I've found that on vehicles, you can get away with one aplicatrion every 3 to 4 months and it keeps things minty. Around £14 a can I think. ACF50 I used on my bikes and firearms until I discovered XCP. Don't use it in the bore though!
  14. VarmLR

    6,5mm Creedmore or 6,5x47L for F Open?

    I think that the 27 inch tube is the thing here. You might expect something like a 65 to 75fps advantage over a 24 inch tube, so in a 24 inch barrel, that's likely be low 2700's, still good for 1000 yds. Must admit, I favour RS62 in the CM.
  15. VarmLR

    first 223 reload

    I use the 69's loaded to 2.25 COL and a 24.7gr load using RS50. Very accurate load from my 26" 1/8. MVs around the 2830 mark. No QL involved but I admit to using Scott Satterlee's method to find a plateau which was then checked for group size and ES. Otherwise start low and work up looking for the low vertical dispersion group which falls central to the groups either side of it on group centre.

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