Binnzy

Hi Guys I probably have a bit more experience with this rifle than most. I supplied a UPG 1 in 6.5 CM to one of my clients; provided to me by Ewen's company. I have since seen the rifle shot extensively, and competed against it from short range out to 1200yds+; both for informal long range plate shooting and more formal competitive range work. With customised hand loads the rifle is capable of comfortable 0.5moa performance, this particular one likes the 123gn scenar. The rifle has performed exceptionally well and functions flawlessly, it appears to be 'gamekeeper proof' and can tolerate hard work and abuse. There was an initial, very early issue with the extractor; however, this was quickly sorted by Ewen and Unique Alpine who designed and supplied a heavier duty extractor in a matter of days, this extractor is now supplied as standard in the rifle. I will not be selling my AI AX in 260 rem to buy one just yet, but ( in my view) the quality of the UPG is on a par with the AI, and better than the Tikka Tac. I don't dislike the Tikka Tac, but if I was choosing which to buy now between an AI, the UPG and a Tikka Tac I'd go fo the UPG as the best performance/cost balance having handled and shot all three...for what it's worth, that's my view. If you've any more specific questions, drop me a PM. Paul

I bought one of these £6 power supplies from Amazon to simplify things, as I am not keen on adapters: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00KONSSAC/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Hi Dustyman I use old cases (never tried a split case) to calibrate the annealing machine. No need to use cases from your 'in-use' batches. I have around a dozen old cases that I use, although now I generally only need 2 or 3 to get it spot on and remember, you can use these same cases each time as there is no variation in rate of temperature increase within the brass whether the case is already annealed or work hardened. I confirm the timing each time with these cases before each batch, and I normally batch through 100-200 each time. There is some tolerance in the process as long as you avoid the orange flame, or just get a slight whiff of one during the exit from the flame. Therefore, there is no specific requirement to batch on age or the number of firings of the cases as long as you are using the same manufacturer. I only use Lapua cases though, and as you would expect, there is zero difference between a standard 308 case and the small primer palma version of the 308 case. I wrote my technique earlier in the thread about backing off the timing from the flame to orange changeover; using this technique, I no longer use templiaq. The timing can vary slighty each time (by up to 0.5 sec), but that is probably more down to torch set up and remaining pressure in the cylinder, rather than any variation in the cases. Hopefully, this answers your queries; if not, let me know. Paul

Hi Bob You can get Tempilaq from Mark Ellis - aka Spud1967 Reloading (amongst other places, but I would rather support one of our community): http://www.1967spud.com/shop/tempilaq/tempilaq/ I recommmend getting the 750F Tempilaq One bottle will last you a very, very long time. Once I have set up my annealer using a few spare cases to get the timing correct; starting with a little orange flame generation then backing off the timing so that the case moves before the orange flame starts (as described above). then I will put one case through with tempilaq on the inside of the neck to ensure it gets up to temperature. So...I only use tempilaq on 1 case per annealing session. I find it easier to tempilaq a few cases ahead of time and store them with the annealer, as it takes a while to dry and I want to 'get on with it' once I get the annealer out. Paul

There are many things I am regularly accused of - being a great photographer is not one of them! However, you can hopefully get the idea of the torch set up I use:

I use 750F Tempilaq on the inside of the case. It has to on the inside so that it is subjected to the temperasture of the brass, rather than the flame. Only whilst directly in the flame will the temperature be high enough to continue the annealing process. If you want to see this for yourself, you can increase the timing a little so that you start to see some material reduction of the brass (zinc), as the flame will change colour from blue to orange. Even as the case starts to move away from the centre of the flame, before it has fully exited, the orange flame will dissipate and so the annealing will stop. If you really wanted to see how far the 450F 'line' goes down the case you can use some 450F Temilaq all the way down the the case below the neck (or one of their crayons are fine for the outside - I have a spare if you need it). However, having learnt the process, I no longer feel the 450F indicator is necessary. If you anneal without getting an orange flame (a minimal hint of orange when rotating out will still be ok), and the tempilaq 750f melts, you are spot on. If you need further proof of the temperature reduction out of the flame, put some water droplets on a non-cumbustable surface and take the flame closer and closer to them, you will get a good feeling for how the temperature gradient rises. You will be surprised how close you can get to the flame without boiling off the water. If your timing is set correctly and you do not see the flame change colour, it is not possible to over-anneal the case using this method. The standard method of annealing brass (outside of reloading) is to subject the brass to 450F for 15 mins. Obviously, this will not work for us as the thermal conductivity would then soak the whole of the case and thus soften all of it. Our aim as reloaders is to anneal just the neck/shoulder without softening or weaking the case below the shoulder. This is achieved by using a higher temperature for a much shorter period of time. Once directly out of the flame, the temperature reduces rapidly below 450F, and annealing stops very quickly. Although don't be tempted to handle it with your fingers! On Lubo's machine, I have the torch set on the left side and the case rotates towards it, however, for all the above reasons this is not an issue. BUT, make sure you use a torch with a fine flame and not a general prupose swirl one, it needs to have a defined fine blue point. The one I recommended earlier in this thread is perfect for the task. Hopefully this all makes sense. Paul

I have had one of these for several months now, and can anneal cases both reliably and quickly (about 8 x 308 cases per minute; I also have a 223 disc). It is a very solid unit due to the use of thick stainless steel sheet. I have already annealed over a 1000 cases with it and still have over half the gas cylinder remaining. I use a GoSystems Fine Flame Power Torch with 400ml Rothenberger propane cylinders (no need to use MAPP), my wife shoots FTR too and was happy to sacrifice a couple of baking trays to let the cases fall down onto. You do need a fine flame torch, and not a general purpose or swirl flame torch. http://www.go-system.co.uk/catalog/product/view/id/258/category/22/ Use a couple of spare cases to get the timing sorted each time; the case needs to move out of the flame just before the flame changes colour to orange. You can initially use 750F Tempilaq on the inside of a few necks if necessary, just to check. This ensures that the neck gets to 750F to anneal it, but the area just below the shoulder does not get above 450F. I now anneal my Lapua 308 Palma cases every time, because it is so easy. I bought mine from Lubo, and it arrived (from the EU, Bulgaria if I remember correctly) in the timescale that he promised, and he kept me informed every step of the way. Very nice guy to deal with and if I lost mine, I would buy another. If you have any questions about using it, or need any more info about owning/using one, just send me a PM. Paul