Catch-22

Thanks Andy. I may well get the gun bedded at some point in the future. Cheers

Yes I had, just removed from pic at that time.

Here you go Andy. Theres nothing on the chassis to suggest movement. I have marred the action finish a bit due to some Redline High Pressure grease I used on the bolt lugs reacting to some left over cleaning solvents unfortunately. I think this trickled down via the front action screw and got between the chassis and action unknowingly and wore away some of the actions surface finish between a cleaning one time. But it’s all cosmetic. Needless to say I don’t use Redline on my bolt lugs, I’ve gone back to the MilTec and take extra care now flushing the chamber and bore with isopropyl alcohol. Back to your question, I don’t see any signs of actual action movement in the chassis - which is good. If this was an F class rig, it would be bedded as a minimum, more likely glued and screwed. But for range/PRS style use, I think it’s fine! Interesting write up on PRS blog. Seems 50% of the top shooters skim bed their chassis. The reason given was not because they see accurate improvements or anything. It’s more they’re using it as an insurance policy in case they bang or drop the rifle during a strange at a match. But none seem to say it’s crucial to them. Again, f class is a whole different kettle of fish.

Price dropped to £250 posted

Just stick the Impact into an MPA Competition chassis - I had one built a few years ago complete with several barrels of each 6.5x47 and .223AI and it’s a great shooter. Ive never been a fan of the grip on my AI, the MPA is much better.

Still here.

Hi Ron. You will need to list a price to comply with forum rules, otherwise your ad will be removed. Best of luck with the sale.

Bump

Bump

Sorry, no

Redding Full Length die set (sizer and seater dies). 7mm Blaser Magnum. Never used. £200 posted to UK mainland.

Bump

I’ll have the Lapua .223 brass please!

Bump

RS52 is not too dissimilar to VARGET. It’s a bit more ‘high energy’ than N140 but less so than N540. But same sort of burn rate as N140. Lots of load data on the RS website, so as with any reloading, start on the low side and work up.

Hi Mike. Yes I’m based in Newport, but if you shoot with MDRC I can meet at the Tunnel or at MOD range dates if that’s easier. Please send me a PM about payment and to arrange handover. Cheers 👍

Magnetospeed v3. Comes in hard case with all the original bits. Works perfectly and is in excellent condition. Reduced to £250, includes P&P to UK mainland.

Hi. Yep powder is still good. Stored in its original container. Powders are good for 10yrs or more if stored properly.

Ah right. Yeah, that makes sense. Thanks

No, not a Joe West - custom US stock. Sorry, are you implying that if it’s not a Joe West, not to bother having it finished??

Anyone?

Thanks, looking into it that does seem to be the best option. There’s a really good vapour blasting place not far from me, so I’ll speak to them. thanks again!

Firstly, this is a pure vanity question. All my actions are nitrided but fancy a change. Secondly, I understand that nitriding (and I’m assume the actions have been Salt Bath Nitrided QPQ) is a heat treatment which alters the metallurgical structure several microns deep. It is not a top coating. But the very top layer (the black you see) is the oxidised byproduct of the nitriding process. With the above in mind, does anyone know if it’s possible to sand or bead blast the action to remove the top black oxidisation layer, hopefully to reveal the silver steel underneath? And I am aware the steel, even if it goes ‘silver’ is still nitrided. Any experience with the above? Cheers

Great, thank you for the advice, that’s super helpful!

Thanks very much Elwood for all the info and advice. I’ll take that into consideration, perhaps 12 thou necks is just a little too thin?! One question, after fire forming and FL sizing brass from then on, do you continue to use the same 0.307 / 0.308 bushing, or do you go a size up? I will look to the 2850fps range. Yes I’ve heard this too, will do. yes that’s also really good advice, I won’t forget - thank you.