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Everything posted by Catch-22

  1. You're quite right Pete - my mistake! Here are the product sheets, if it's of interest to anyone? AC6111: https://www.momentive.com/en-us/products/literature/bn-powder-grade-ac6111/ HCPL: https://www.momentive.com/en-us/products/literature/bn-powder-grades-hcp--26amp-3b-hcpl/
  2. I think the chaps in the States advocated a larger grade HbN (larger platelets - 0.5micron size) because it's easier to swab the bore with it - essentially you get a better coating. The finer 5-6 micron being fine enough to embed itself into the pores of the copper jacket. But if they've the one grade, worth a shot...see how it goes.
  3. These are two of the main HbN sources I've studied for the application process. http://benchrest.com/showthread.php?66216-Barrel-PreTreat-For-HBN https://forums.gunboards.com/showthread.php?213557-As-promised-hBN-or-Hexagonal-Boron-Nitride-impact-coating#/topics/213557 It seems that it's key to coat BOTH bullets AND the barrel and that two grades of HbN is therefore best. Coating the barrel is important because as a bullet goes down it, it sort of burnishes the inside with s good layer. To do so, you use a grade containing slightly larger particle sizes and mix it with 90%+ pure alcohol (I made up a suspension of HbN and 99% isopropyl alcohol). You simply run a patch or two of the down the bore 30mins before shooting. The alcohol evoporates but leaves the HbN in the bore, ready to be burninshed by the 1st bullet. This created a fine ceramic coat/film along the bore and is what reduces the friction and SHOULD protect the throat/bore a bit again the hot temperatures as HbN is able to withstand temperatures of around 1000 degrees (I believe). So it's a bit like a thin flame/heat retardant coating between the actual flame and the barrel steel. You only need do this now and then, really after a thorough barrel clean where you remove everything from the bore, including HbN. Coating bullets requires a finer, crystalline grade of HbN, and is impact plated onto bullets. The process is almost identical to coating with Moly (clean & heat bullets, tumble with BBs coated in HbN for a few hours, then lightly polish bullets to remove excess). Then load and shoot them. The two grades being AC6111 for Barrels (I think it's 0.1 microns in size) and HCPL for bullets (their finer crystalline stuff, about 10 microns). I bought my HbN from TAI Lubricants in the States as that's where a number of the benchrest shooters got theirs. Not cheap but if it **could** prolonge a bit of barrel life, then actually totally worth it.
  4. Ha - tell that to my wife 🙄😂 If HbN does pleasantly surprise me, I'll definitely share my results & thoughts on using it. Unfortunately the sport we all love is just so sodding expensive, especially when compared to our cousins across the pond, so anything to prolong barrel life is a boon.
  5. Yes I use it on all calibres. I've not done a comparison between naked and coated bullets but I know what sort of ball park non coating should get me, so intrigued to see where the coated fits me in. i do have extra spare barrel blanks for each calibre and had thought about conducting a more scientific comparison once I shelve the current barrels. I may do so, but if by coating my barrels are giving me good numbers, I may just continue coating for the next barrels. Dunno?!?
  6. Well a fair few top shooters in the States use it, including David Tubb. Again, might all just be pixy dust but having read about it extensively, i figured there's nothing to loose and everything to gain - especially if it's some extra barrel life. We shall see.
  7. I know, I know. You're probably right but as it doesn't have any of the downsides that Moly does, I thought it was worth a shot (pun intended). 😬
  8. Great article - all you need to know explained here: http://bulletin.accurateshooter.com/2018/11/the-moly-saga-why-moly-coating-has-fallen-from-favor/ I actually decided to use HbN for my bullets, theory being its stable at very high temperatures, creates a thin ceramic coating inside the bore (most importantly atbthe throat) which protects the steel a bit from the hot flame. It also helps to lower pressures (pressure being something that's also bad for barrel steel) and it isn't hydroscopic (unlike Moly) so doesn't attract and convert mosture from burnt propellant & general air in the environment, into water that becomes trapped between the coating and the barrel - turning into rust! Whether HbN is all that or a load of old cobblers has yet to be determined. A lot of people who use it, swear by it. I've not used it long enough to know. Theory behind it sounds right, and it does make the bullets slippery as hell.
  9. Catch-22

    Small Rifle Primers ?

    You may run into trouble at the top end of pressure because they have a very thin cup according to Laurie. Maybe keep an eye on them as you slowly increase your loads.
  10. Catch-22

    .224 Valkyrie

    Unfortunately, it never will Andrew. Anything remotely exciting and gaining traction/popularity Stateside means the importers & distributors here will instantly bump prices up 50%. I can already see them rubbing their grubby hands with glee at the prospect.
  11. Catch-22

    Small Rifle Primers ?

    From the analysis, I'd be looking at the MagTech 7 1/2, S&B and Fiocchi. I personally now use Muorum KVB-223M (magnums) in my 6.5x47, like Pete does above, and they shrunk my ES/SD. I previously had real issues with CCI 450s, ES/SD all over the shop. The 450s were crap IMO - and cost loads more than everything else.
  12. Catch-22

    Small Rifle Primers ?

    Check out the three excellent articles by Laurie. Answers to all your questions: http://www.targetshooter.co.uk/?p=2662
  13. Catch-22

    Forster Ultra 2-die set 30-06

    I'm looking for the Ultra, F/L sizer and micrometer seater, 2-die set calibre 30-06 Gimme a shout if you have a box gathering dust. cheers
  14. Catch-22

    Custom dies - body die

    For the full custom route, both Neil Jones and Whidden just want 3 once fired cases (use full power loads) to be sent to them. They make the dies to size the brass to a minimum, so they're nicely spec'd to your chamber. Both dies of high quality. Both ordered online (with a few emails back and forth). No issues with export and customs. My Neil Jones die (no longer with me - went with the previous rifle when I sold it) was very high quality. The current Whidden dies I have aren't the 'custom' route. I actually went with their normal benchrest dies because they had the calibres I wanted (6.5x47 and .338 Norma Mag.). I took a look on their site but unfortunately they don't offer 7x64, so you would need to go with their custom dies. One key reason why I went with their regular dies was the fact that I didn't have/own the original chamber reamer (for the 6.5x47 anyway...I own the .338 Norma reamer) or could guarantee I would have access to it. I felt (rightly or wrongly...not sure) that without the reamer, a future rebarrel with a new reamer may size my brass differently and thus *may* not work with the custom dies. Now, the dimensions of difference between reamers and thus the dies may be minuscule, but I couldn't be sure. I don't know enough about it. Needless to say I didn't want to take the risk, so went regular Whiddens this time for ease. Whidden himself was pleasent to deal with, the dies work really well and appear to be very concentric. They appear to be machined of aluminium (with steel insert..I think?!?) but haven't heard any complaints about their durability.
  15. I had previously looked into Borka but sadly they won't ship to anyone outside the US. ?
  16. Catch-22

    Custom dies - body die

    If you want/need to go the custom route, the two I've used and would recommend would be; Whidden custom dies: https://www.whiddengunworks.com/custom-reloading-dies/ Neil Jones custom dies: http://www.neiljones.com/html/threaded_dies.html
  17. It was Ed Shilen. Yeah I previously had a Bergara barrel in 6.5x47. Nice button barrels, and you're right - good value for money. A good stainless steel cut barrel blank is about £100 more.
  18. If a big concern for you is cost, then all the reloading equipment required to switch calibres isn't actually that cheap either. Obviously you need new brass, bullets (I buy in bulk to make it cheaper), possibly different powder (also bulk), but then new dies, bushings (if neck sizing), cleaning brushes/jags etc. Doesn't sound much but everything added together is likely to be around 1/4 to 1/3 the cost of a new barrel. If you're already geared up to shoot 6.5x47 (excellent calibre btw), my own personal opinion would be to just stick with it.
  19. Hi, Could anyone help me out with some QuickLoad advice please? Load is 30-06 but long throated for 185gn+ bullets, specifically Lapua 185gn D46 and 185gn Scenar, 190gn and 210gn Sierra Matchkings. I don't know the exact COAL but from case head to start of the throat (per reamer print) would be around 2.822". I guess that puts COAL around the 3.400" mark?! Barrel: 1-10" twist, 30" finished, standard 0.340 neck (not tight), Brass: Lapua 30-06 Primer: likely to be Murom LRP or CCI 200 Pressure: likely to be close to SAMMI max at 60,000psi Powders: seems H4350 and IMR 4350 is the standard but I'm specifically interested in those available in the UK, namely; - Viht N150 (maybe too fast), N160, N165 - RS52 (maybe too fast), RS62, RS70 - Ramshot Hunter In addition to the above, I'd appreciate a 'full list' of possible powders in order to understand how my preferred powders stack up?! Many thanks in advance!
  20. Catch-22

    QuickLoad advice - 30-06 with 185gn+

    @GT3_richy many thanks for all the info buddy - really appreciate the help on this! @Gandy well I've got a switch barrel rifle; 6.5x47 for more precision work upto 1000m, .338 Norma Mag for 1000m+ and just having a big fat boomer for kicks. I have a couple of spare barrel blanks for each calibre to keep me going. But i decided to opt for a 3rd barrel in 30-06 as a do all, shoot lots calibre. It sort of has all the good bits a .308w has (easy to tune, lots of components, bullets way cheaper than the long range 6.5mm and 7mm's, barrel life around 4000-5000 rounds, tolerable recoil) but with few/none of the downsides. I know others may disagree, but I've always felt the .308w just struggles to 1000m. Whereas the 30-06 has just a bit more capacity to do so with ease, even with heavier bullets. According to superior minds, such as German Salazar et al, the key to improving accuracy with the 30-06 is by changing the throat lead angle from 3 degrees to 1.5 degrees. Doing so matches the .308w and seems to really breathe new accuracy potential in the 30-06, which is what I'm specifying on my reamer. So my aim is to see if by using a long and super fat barrel in 30-06, I'm able to get lots of medium/long range trigger time whilst spreading out my more accurate shooting on the other barrels. I didn't fancy .284w or similar because a barrel would be toast in 1/2 the time. Bullets are pricer too. Didn't want to go .300wm as I've already a bigger boomer than that. Plus 30-06 can be loaded close on the heels of a .300wm. Anyhoo, it's all just a bit of fun. We'll see!?
  21. Catch-22

    QuickLoad advice - 30-06 with 185gn+

    I don't know EXACTLY (I don't have any brass to measure) but 30-06 average is right around 69gn H2O. Thanks
  22. Catch-22

    New barrel breaking in

    Put a patch with a carbon cleaner down it to remove any carbon from the proof loads and knock any other possible contaminants that may haves worked themselves into the bore during transportation...then go shoot! If it's a decent matchgrade barrel (e.g. Bartlein, Krieger etc) they've already been lapped. Polishing, with JB paste etc will just erode your throat quicker. Bullets do a good amount of the 'smoothing' process to iron out any burrs post reaming. Just go shoot.
  23. Catch-22

    Mausingfield 6.5x47

    Why not download the excellent free targets from Accurate shooter. Loads there to satisfy! http://www.accurateshooter.com/shooting-skills/targets/
  24. Catch-22

    Ocw results

    I think you've done it right. You've found a stable node. With this done, it's now the right time to play with seating depth to fine tune your load to perfection (if you want to that is...your results look good as is). Simply following the same 'round robin' style you did for OCW but all same charge weight, only difference is seating depth. You have your baseline (2.800"), so why not load a few that eek them out a bit. If it were me, I'd load the following (all being 44.3gn); 3x 2.800" 3x 2.850" 3x 2.900" 3x 2.930" (so just touching the lands) You could do another set jammed into the lands but just watch for over pressure!!! Observe the results. You'll see your groups shrink and expand a bit. Choose the group that has shrunk everything into a nice tight cluster. You may find you're already there with 2.800". Then take your 44.3gn load (with best seating depth) and go play at longer distance (600m +) to see how it fairs down range. Good luck!

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