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Catch-22

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About Catch-22

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    Newport - sunny South Wales

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  1. Catch-22

    Forster Ultra 2-die set 30-06

    I'm looking for the Ultra, F/L sizer and micrometer seater, 2-die set calibre 30-06 Gimme a shout if you have a box gathering dust. cheers
  2. Catch-22

    Custom dies - body die

    For the full custom route, both Neil Jones and Whidden just want 3 once fired cases (use full power loads) to be sent to them. They make the dies to size the brass to a minimum, so they're nicely spec'd to your chamber. Both dies of high quality. Both ordered online (with a few emails back and forth). No issues with export and customs. My Neil Jones die (no longer with me - went with the previous rifle when I sold it) was very high quality. The current Whidden dies I have aren't the 'custom' route. I actually went with their normal benchrest dies because they had the calibres I wanted (6.5x47 and .338 Norma Mag.). I took a look on their site but unfortunately they don't offer 7x64, so you would need to go with their custom dies. One key reason why I went with their regular dies was the fact that I didn't have/own the original chamber reamer (for the 6.5x47 anyway...I own the .338 Norma reamer) or could guarantee I would have access to it. I felt (rightly or wrongly...not sure) that without the reamer, a future rebarrel with a new reamer may size my brass differently and thus *may* not work with the custom dies. Now, the dimensions of difference between reamers and thus the dies may be minuscule, but I couldn't be sure. I don't know enough about it. Needless to say I didn't want to take the risk, so went regular Whiddens this time for ease. Whidden himself was pleasent to deal with, the dies work really well and appear to be very concentric. They appear to be machined of aluminium (with steel insert..I think?!?) but haven't heard any complaints about their durability.
  3. I had previously looked into Borka but sadly they won't ship to anyone outside the US. ?
  4. Catch-22

    Custom dies - body die

    If you want/need to go the custom route, the two I've used and would recommend would be; Whidden custom dies: https://www.whiddengunworks.com/custom-reloading-dies/ Neil Jones custom dies: http://www.neiljones.com/html/threaded_dies.html
  5. It was Ed Shilen. Yeah I previously had a Bergara barrel in 6.5x47. Nice button barrels, and you're right - good value for money. A good stainless steel cut barrel blank is about £100 more.
  6. If a big concern for you is cost, then all the reloading equipment required to switch calibres isn't actually that cheap either. Obviously you need new brass, bullets (I buy in bulk to make it cheaper), possibly different powder (also bulk), but then new dies, bushings (if neck sizing), cleaning brushes/jags etc. Doesn't sound much but everything added together is likely to be around 1/4 to 1/3 the cost of a new barrel. If you're already geared up to shoot 6.5x47 (excellent calibre btw), my own personal opinion would be to just stick with it.
  7. Catch-22

    QuickLoad advice - 30-06 with 185gn+

    @GT3_richy many thanks for all the info buddy - really appreciate the help on this! @Gandy well I've got a switch barrel rifle; 6.5x47 for more precision work upto 1000m, .338 Norma Mag for 1000m+ and just having a big fat boomer for kicks. I have a couple of spare barrel blanks for each calibre to keep me going. But i decided to opt for a 3rd barrel in 30-06 as a do all, shoot lots calibre. It sort of has all the good bits a .308w has (easy to tune, lots of components, bullets way cheaper than the long range 6.5mm and 7mm's, barrel life around 4000-5000 rounds, tolerable recoil) but with few/none of the downsides. I know others may disagree, but I've always felt the .308w just struggles to 1000m. Whereas the 30-06 has just a bit more capacity to do so with ease, even with heavier bullets. According to superior minds, such as German Salazar et al, the key to improving accuracy with the 30-06 is by changing the throat lead angle from 3 degrees to 1.5 degrees. Doing so matches the .308w and seems to really breathe new accuracy potential in the 30-06, which is what I'm specifying on my reamer. So my aim is to see if by using a long and super fat barrel in 30-06, I'm able to get lots of medium/long range trigger time whilst spreading out my more accurate shooting on the other barrels. I didn't fancy .284w or similar because a barrel would be toast in 1/2 the time. Bullets are pricer too. Didn't want to go .300wm as I've already a bigger boomer than that. Plus 30-06 can be loaded close on the heels of a .300wm. Anyhoo, it's all just a bit of fun. We'll see!?
  8. Catch-22

    QuickLoad advice - 30-06 with 185gn+

    I don't know EXACTLY (I don't have any brass to measure) but 30-06 average is right around 69gn H2O. Thanks
  9. Hi, Could anyone help me out with some QuickLoad advice please? Load is 30-06 but long throated for 185gn+ bullets, specifically Lapua 185gn D46 and 185gn Scenar, 190gn and 210gn Sierra Matchkings. I don't know the exact COAL but from case head to start of the throat (per reamer print) would be around 2.822". I guess that puts COAL around the 3.400" mark?! Barrel: 1-10" twist, 30" finished, standard 0.340 neck (not tight), Brass: Lapua 30-06 Primer: likely to be Murom LRP or CCI 200 Pressure: likely to be close to SAMMI max at 60,000psi Powders: seems H4350 and IMR 4350 is the standard but I'm specifically interested in those available in the UK, namely; - Viht N150 (maybe too fast), N160, N165 - RS52 (maybe too fast), RS62, RS70 - Ramshot Hunter In addition to the above, I'd appreciate a 'full list' of possible powders in order to understand how my preferred powders stack up?! Many thanks in advance!
  10. Catch-22

    New barrel breaking in

    Put a patch with a carbon cleaner down it to remove any carbon from the proof loads and knock any other possible contaminants that may haves worked themselves into the bore during transportation...then go shoot! If it's a decent matchgrade barrel (e.g. Bartlein, Krieger etc) they've already been lapped. Polishing, with JB paste etc will just erode your throat quicker. Bullets do a good amount of the 'smoothing' process to iron out any burrs post reaming. Just go shoot.
  11. Catch-22

    Mausingfield 6.5x47

    Why not download the excellent free targets from Accurate shooter. Loads there to satisfy! http://www.accurateshooter.com/shooting-skills/targets/
  12. Catch-22

    Ocw results

    I think you've done it right. You've found a stable node. With this done, it's now the right time to play with seating depth to fine tune your load to perfection (if you want to that is...your results look good as is). Simply following the same 'round robin' style you did for OCW but all same charge weight, only difference is seating depth. You have your baseline (2.800"), so why not load a few that eek them out a bit. If it were me, I'd load the following (all being 44.3gn); 3x 2.800" 3x 2.850" 3x 2.900" 3x 2.930" (so just touching the lands) You could do another set jammed into the lands but just watch for over pressure!!! Observe the results. You'll see your groups shrink and expand a bit. Choose the group that has shrunk everything into a nice tight cluster. You may find you're already there with 2.800". Then take your 44.3gn load (with best seating depth) and go play at longer distance (600m +) to see how it fairs down range. Good luck!
  13. Catch-22

    Ocw results

    If you had looked through the entire thread, you would see that the OP has done exactly that. 44.3gn was the middle of was appeared to be a stable node. Further refinement showed 44.3 was in fact spot on. To the OPs credit, he has followed the OCW method correctly and arrived at a very good/stable looking combination.
  14. Catch-22

    Best AICS mag compatible bottom metal in UK?

    Yes Baldie is right, a small amount of milling on the underside of the action sides is needed to allow the mag feedlips to get high enough for the bolt to pickup a round. I had the inletting done at the same time as a new stock fitted, bedding and rebarrel...so reproofing was all done st the same time. i won't tell you who did the work as I don't want you to use him. Putting it politely, I later found out, on an unrelated matter, that he's a total c*nt and I don't want you to be messed about like I have been. But as Baldie notes, any competent rifle smith can do the job quite easily. I bought the CDI bottom metal directly from them and it was easy as pie. If I wanted bottom metal for another job, I wouldn't hesitate to use CDI again.
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