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About snakeman

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  1. Tears in Case necks

    If you're happy to continue trimming that way maybe it will help you to buy the Lee cutter ball-grip; maybe it'll help you achieve a consistent technique? However, you will notice a marked improvement in your trimming with the 'in-line' design and to do away with case-length gauge trimmer. How have you determined the cutter is not degrading? I'd be interested to know how you've arrived at this conclusion - what tool did you use to measure the sharpness of the cutter?... .....Just because some cases trim ok does not mean the cutter is not degrading. Everything has a lifespan and a far better cutter is the carbide cutter, which the Lee case-length gauge trimmer you're using, is not. Buy a proper trimmer and be done with problem ATB
  2. Tears in Case necks

    Just an anecdote:... I recall using the tool you're using Long Gun and I 'trimmed' 200 Lapua .308 cases. I was left with holes in my palms looking as if I'd just been taken down off a cross! Change the trimmer to a design as onehole shows ATB
  3. Tears in Case necks

    Then the cutter is blunt... or your technique needs improving ATB
  4. Tears in Case necks

    With respect Long Gun .... phaedra1106uk asked a more than valid question: .. What are you 'trimming' with? (not deburring)... Don't want to sound as if I'm teaching granny to suck eggs here BUT....Deburing and trimming are two totally different procedures...You do not trim with a deburring tool. If you are, change your method, and the tool, and buy a decent 'case-trimmer' ATB
  5. new .223 time

    Many thanks, Laurie 👍
  6. new .223 time

    In your 1:9" how does the 69g TMK compare to the standard 69g SMK?.....for stability/accuracy Does anyone have the length measurement for 69g TMK? Cheers
  7. Sako vs Tikka

    Sam Be it the Sako or the Tikka, whether you're using a mod or not, on either of these rifles I will be very surprised if a mod improves the inherent accuracy of the actual rifle. There are far too many other factors to consider. The rifles in themselves have the potential to deliver exceptional accuracy, which in turn will be far more consistent than the nut behind the butt. The 'improved' accuracy more than likely emerges through reduced recoil the mod affords, and not because of being in itself a supplemental add-on, or have differing/superior manufacturing design that dictate the accuracy of the rifle. At that end, it's about developing the skills that assists in reducing recoil rather than the claimed supplemental add-on (mod) that 'improves' accuracy....Again, just another marketing ploy by the manufactures to spend your cash.... If you think about it, we would all be rushing to the gunshop asking the retailer: ..."I have a.223 and could I have the most accurate moderator for it, please"? .......which unfortunately does not exist But indeed I agree 100% certain circumstances, and quarry, dictate the use of a mod. ATB whichever you choose
  8. Sako vs Tikka

    Wildcat Evolution, for me......light, durable, doesn't over-balance the rifle, easy to clean, decreases the blast effectively enough...it's as good as anything else out there in its price-bracket. (£200).... Fox still hears it though.... but then again, there's not a lot that a fox won't hear......I sometimes wonder about the effectiveness of any make of mod out on the fields on a quiet night and, if they are really necessary out in the field? I suppose different circumstances dictate for different people on that one.... Yes, they do lower the decibels a tad, and assist in minimizing unwanted recoil but, my question has always been "are they really THAT effective on a centrefire rifle"? ...I've heard a good few different makes of mods and had three different types previously.....Fox heard every one of them....(and knew which direction the shot came from)....Savvy fox in Wales
  9. Sako vs Tikka

    Sam No idea and never heard of one - ask a Smith but you're hardly gonna need one unless of course there's a regiment of fox on the drill-yard
  10. Sako vs Tikka

    Sam You could always purchase a 3rd mag for the Tikka, which sits pretty much flush; or as close to the stock so as not to cause a hindrance. 10ys out in the field and never had a problem with x 2.. 3rd mags......sometimes the problem you imagine, doesn't exist Also, I have never in all that time, ever been in a situation where it was called for a rapid mag change. Shoot once, and cycle another round 'if needed' = 1 left in the mag....Believe me, when out in the field, particularly if on fox control, those fox are long gone by the time you look to fire the third round... You'd be quids in, buying a Tikka if you're using it for the field...In my experience I have seen folk with their 'expensive kit' (whatever rifle that might be) decline to enter situations where a fox could be culled, because their stock could get scratched, or dirty...or...you get my drift....IMHO the Tikka, economically speaking, is a far more prudent purchase ATB
  11. Sako vs Tikka

    Sam If you want a 223 that looks nice and shoots nice then choose the Sako. However, if you want a rifle that doesn't feel as nice but still shoots as nice, then choose Tikka I have a T3x Super Varmint in .308. No faults here in any way. It's probably one of those stocks that 'does-what-it-says-on-tin'.. The advantage for me with it, is having the picatinny rail. I have always found the Tikka as having a somewhat short stock, so the benefit of having the rail compensates for the shortfall I might encounter regarding scope mounting issues (eye-relief) Plenty of both these rifles on the shelves - try for size before you buy Good luck with your choice and enjoy ATB
  12. CZ527 Single Set Trigger

    SST on my 527 is set at 8oz while the standard trigger set at 2.5lb. I find when SST is applied my accuracy increases significantly but for me this is all down to the 'hold' and head position/movement when pressure is applied to the trigger. If you found, or still find, the trigger is too far forward when set, it can be adjusted down to where it suits you. That is just one of the beauties of the SST on the 527. If not confident yourself, I would advise you ask a Smith or someone competent to give the trigger mechanism a service/clean and adjust as necessary. The 527 trigger can feel a little 'gritty' after prolonged use but, it does faultlessly return to pulling as 'sweet-as-nut' following a service. I find the SST a great advantage and wouldn't be without it these days. I would think the SST option is subjective though - you either get on with them, or you don't. The optional SST on the Tikka is sweeter. It feels more distinct and positive when applied with no free-play and is as smooth as a baby's rear. My Tikka SST, like my 527, also breaks at 8oz and is one of the reasons I opted for the special order Tikka, the other reason being the 24" barrel and the factory fitted rail ..(.308cal) I note you're using the 55g Blitzking in your 527. I use 22.7g of N130 with a COAL of 2.235 with a 55g Blitzking, which is my foxing round; whilst my precision load is 24.5g of N140 under a 69g SMK with a COAL of the same at 2.235. However, the Blitzking is as accurate as the 69g SMK, it is THAT good with the N130 recipe and there's nothing to choose between them, accuracy speak - if reloading work up to those powder weights slowly, should you try them Learn to use the SST on your 527 and it's a superb trigger - but that's just my preference ...and opinion ATB
  13. "safest bet" would be whichever you choose get the bore checked with a good Smith & borescope before you commit... Tip: should you opt for the TX and if it still has the full set of target sights........ I got a rail from EGW. The tricky part was the screws that came with the rail were all the same size and were too small for the two rear holes on the receiver; therefore, the rear two screws of the original target sights have to be used to secure the two rear holes of the rail to the receiver. The two rear holes on the rail had to be re-bored and countersunk to accept the original target sight screws which were a larger size thread. The two front screws was no problem and fit perfect - an easy fix for a competent person.... Then, what was the surplus EGW screws will fit the holes left behind from when the front sight is removed, and will neatly fit the holes as blanking screws So, in a nutshell - the two rear holes on the TX receiver are a larger diameter thread than the screws EGW include with the rail. Do the maths: cost of rail inc p/p from Pennsylvania was more than I paid for the rifle! ....but well worth the extra expense http://www.egwguns.com/scope-mounts-rings/mauser-98-large-ring-picatinny-rail-scope-mount-0-moa-commercial/ ATB
  14. For what it was (an old rifle) with over 10,000 rounds down the tube after I finished with it, the TX1200 in 7.62cal I owned was my very first 7.62 rifle. That rifle cost me £50 quid and in return provided me tenfold the fun If those types or rifle are your passion and you can get one with a decent bore, a TX1200 will very much serve you well. Whether mine was a "superb shooter" I don't know but, it was damn accurate when I found the load it liked. I disposed of that rifle only because I wished for something shinier but, it was still shooting 0.5moa at 100yds with 5rd groups, even after 10,000+ rounds through it - amazing really......I look back on that old TX1200 with sincere affection... (wonder where it is now?) ATB
  15. new .223 time

    A hell of a bargain!...If I had the space in safe....... 75g Hornady plinked at Sennybridge so hardly precision shooting...The regular pill of choice is 69g standard matchking. Did consider trying the 69g TMK but probably wouldn't stabilise in 9" twist for more precision work (and at those cost wasn't taking the chance)

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