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fizzbangwhallop

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About fizzbangwhallop

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  • Birthday March 24

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    North Herts

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  1. fizzbangwhallop

    Ultrasonic cleaners - recommendations

    Excellent! 👍 Cheers Fizz 😎
  2. fizzbangwhallop

    Ultrasonic cleaners - recommendations

    This popped into my inbox just now..... I bought a soldering iron from them a few months ago and still get their email newsletters.... https://sendy.allendale-group.co.uk/w/XhTbfsqvfpcTTXLfgvFbGg/o476398924b6iwryJ4ZiKL1IJg/w5zBwpDOanRXRBOHTPZ40A Fizz
  3. fizzbangwhallop

    Ultrasonic cleaners - recommendations

    The tank itself has a 6litre capacity and I fill it to the line you can see in the photo above.....ie about level with the top of the basket without it being hooked over the ends to keep the feet off the base of the tank. Same level in the jars, I only chuck the mix once I’ve done the batch...usually just over the 100 cases mark. I used to use a single jar which did the 100. It’ll be well black by the time you finish. I can be rinsing, bi-carbing and rinsing the first load whilst the second load are running. I mix up the bi-carb in a 2l jug and use that for the whole batch and just use a second jug and an old sieve to save the liquor etc etc cheers fizz
  4. fizzbangwhallop

    Ultrasonic cleaners - recommendations

    Up in my first post... “To keep the main water clean, I use 2 Asda pickled onion jars for the cleaning solution with 20cases in each at a time... 8-10mins at 30c. We’ve got hard water from the tap so I just use rainwater from the butt.... level teaspoon of catering citric acid and a dab of Fairy/dishwasher rinse-aid in each jar.” Strangely I found that that a heaped teaspoon wasn’t as effective... haven’t a clue as to why? When I was looking into it, Seaclean was recommended, bought some but I’ve never used it as the citric works well enough. cheers fizz
  5. fizzbangwhallop

    Ultrasonic cleaners - recommendations

    Apart from being sticky....I’d have thought you’d need to let lemonade stand for more than a while to get rid of the bubbles? I let the water stand for a day or so to get rid of the bubbles that naturally form on the sides of the container.. less work for the de-gas function. If you don’t de-aerate the water, the bubbles will cavitate on the surface of whatever you’re trying to clean thereby reducing the effect as they act as a cushion. Catering citric acid is dirt cheap on fleabay.... https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=m570.l1313&_nkw=cotric+acid&_sacat=0 Cheers Fizz
  6. fizzbangwhallop

    Ultrasonic cleaners - recommendations

    I’ve used one of these for a few years now.... it’s been very good, the de-gas function is a useful addition. I bought a 6l one in order to be able to clean up bits off the bike...carbs, brake cylinders etc etc. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Professional-Ultrasonic-Cleaner-6L-DIGITAL-SMART-DEGAS-heating-SS-Basket-cover/282994398090?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649 To keep the main water clean, I use 2 Asda pickled onion jars for the cleaning solution with 20cases in each at a time... 8-10mins at 30c. We’ve got hard water from the tap so I just use rainwater from the butt.... level teaspoon of catering citric acid and a dab of Fairy/dishwasher rinse-aid in each jar. Rinse the cases, rinse again in hot water with a couple of teaspoons of bicarbonate of soda to neutralise the citric, rinse in cold water... then I blow them through with an air-line and into a Lakeland desiccating unit to dry them off ( no airing cupboard) et voila.... (That’s before I took the label off! ) Fizz
  7. fizzbangwhallop

    pard 008 lrf

    Ash is away til the 4th/5th but you can get your name down for the early bird group buy here..... and confirm it by pm. https://nightvisionforumuk.com/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=19422&start=120 If you’re not already a member you’ll need to join to view the thread. cheers Fizz
  8. fizzbangwhallop

    Wanted stock for Tikka 595

    The bolt clears the cheekpiece in its lowest position allowing removal..... the back end of the cheekpiece slightly overhangs the comb as it drops away... but hey, who cares? 🤣
  9. fizzbangwhallop

    Wanted stock for Tikka 595

    Another...showing height, good enough for cheek-weld on a Drone or a WT1 thermal as opposed to jaw-weld...😎
  10. fizzbangwhallop

    Wanted stock for Tikka 595

    Another....
  11. fizzbangwhallop

    Wanted stock for Tikka 595

    Following another forum members lead, I fitted a kalixteknik cheek riser to my 595 synthetic. KT don’t actually make a specific kit for it but I used a Sako kit and simply cut one of the spacers and cable tied it to the end block to get the right angle and parallel to the comb... the inner rib runs at a converging angle. I think I probably used a longer button head stainless screw to allow for the thickness of that inner rib. Works well and no sign of any weaknesses so far in over a year of use.... I removed that back cross-brace and dug out all the builders foam in there first and then just re-glued the brace once finished. cheers fizz
  12. fizzbangwhallop

    .20 practical loads

    I had a problem using 24grns of N135 in my .17Rem, batch loaded in the March to the existing spec which had been working fine year round for a few years. I must have put around 20rounds through the rifle over the months without a problem til the August when I zeroed another scope to it.... first shot, stiff bolt lift....second shot, stiffer bolt lift and with the third shot I had to knock the bolt handle open with the bottom end of a club hammer shaft. No noticeable increase in recoil or much change in the poi. The cartridges are stored in a room that doesn’t get any sun and I hadn’t left them in the sun beforehand....strange one. Pulled the rest of the batch, dropped to 21.5grns and worked back to 23grns where compared to an original target they were a couple of clicks off the original zero. Speaking to 20-250 on the SD, he’d experienced similar, unexpected results with 135 but I’ve not experienced it with N133 in the .20. fizz
  13. fizzbangwhallop

    .20 practical loads

    I’ve had my Sako A1 .20Prac since 2013 and the load developed at the time ended up at 24grns of N133 (old’ish pot left over from .223 days) with cci400’s, I did a side by side test with Rem7.5’s but the cci’s came out with a narrower FPS spread. But there has always been a bit of cratering on the primers...nothing untoward and I put that down to the thickness of the 400’s cup.... a few months ago, I decided to go back to basics including measuring the chamber after chrono’ing that load and finding it short on FPS compared to the original pot of powder. At the same time... I went for the CCI450 Magnum primers with their thicker cup having done a side by side with the BR4’s (didn’t bother with the Rem7.5’s). On the basis that the Magnum primers are supposed to be hotter, I dropped back to 23.2 guns and came up in .2 grn increments but my groups didn’t start tightening until the speed got to 3600fps and the 39grn SBK’s went into their next published Ballistic coefficient band at .287 I ended up with the best group at 24.6grns but dropped it back to 24.4grns to allow a bit for warmer weather. Dies-wise... I run all my cleaned/annealed cases through the chamber, and for those that are tight I now use a Forster bushing bump neck sizing die that will also bump the shoulder. If they all chamber without a problem I might use a Redding Type S with a 17/20 spindle and a carbide button. Followed by a Wilson to seat 12thou off the lands, I’ll try some at 10thou first on the next batch ready and waiting following a quick dip in the salt. cheers fizz
  14. fizzbangwhallop

    Molten Salt Annealing Rig

    I rest my case.......🤣
  15. fizzbangwhallop

    Molten Salt Annealing Rig

    Well...with a bit of to’ing and fro’ing getting the PID to communicate properly with the SSR, it’s finally finished and I used it in earnest for the first time this morning for another batch of .20Prac cases. Last step (which took a couple of timewasting dead ends before I bought what I should’ve done in the first place) was to fit an led to come on when the PID switches on the relay so I know the output socket is powered. Adjusting the deck height in the caseholder worked until the heat got too hot and galled the threads and I annealed to just over onto the shoulders. I was quite impressed the PID didn’t overshoot by more than a degree...doing over a hundred cases, the temperature only dropped by a degree so that’s a pretty tight range. Bearing in mind Pinkfoots observations above and in his subsequent email, I’ll anneal the next lot at 500c. What you can’t see clearly from the photo is the .243 case neck keeping the 6mm probe off the bottom of the pot and any possibility of a false reading. Just remains to say many thanks to everyone’s input and assistance...invaluable! Cheers Fizz
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