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Neck turning new brass


sean223

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If you are neck-turning to fit a smaller chamber neck, then you can't fire them un-turned - they wouldn't go in - unless you are using the 'wax plug' method - i.e. no bullet.

 

So, if neck-turning new un-fired brass it's best to neck them down and back up again to ensure the necks are completely concentric and a close fit on the neck-turner mandrel - otherwise you'll be defeating the object of what you are trying to achieve.

 

If you aren't using a chamber with a tight-neck, then I don't really see the point of neck-turning - I assume you will be using Lapua brass? It's very good in the neck area and skimming off a couple of thou. will only make the case-neck to chamber-neck fit even sloppier - which would be counter-productive to accuracy.

 

I don't neck-turn for anything other than 100/200 yard benchrest. For 600/1000 yard benchrest and F Class, I'm happy with a 'no-turn' neck - i.e. about three thou. clearance.

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Yes it's a no turn neck chamber. As triggersqueezer says I was going to take the high spots of. It's when am seating the bullet I notice a lot of difference i.e. Some are harder to seat than others, and I thought that it was due to the brass on the necks being deferent thicknesses. Mybe there's something am not doing right. Am using redding com bushing dies. Mybe someone could tell me how they prep and load there brass after firing

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Firstly Lapua brass is usually very tight and somewhat variable if you load it "untouched" from the box. I neck turn from new and find that I need to take off @0.00075 from the neck wall thickness to get them an even thickness. This may not sound like a lot but taking the Gun Pimps comments into account you don't want to take off any more than you need to. This should help yr neck tension consistency. I also return after 1st firing with the cutter left unchanged and find a bit more comes off in places. A small chamfer on the inside of neck goes without saying.

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