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A decent skinning knife for around £30.


chaz

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As above folks i'm after a smallish 2"-3" blade skinning knife around the £30 mark, with some type of sheath would be nice.

I know nothing about skinning knives, other than using my Gerber is a crap idea...

Any advice would be appreciated.

Cheers.

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Not quite your breif but if you are skinning fallow size animals a knife of 5 - 6inchs is best,like this,

http://www.top-gear.co.nz/shop/SHOP+BY+BRAND/SVORD+KNIVES/Svord+5+34+Skinning+Knife+with+Orange+Handle+Carbon+Steel+-+67L.html

 

Kiwi's know their stuff when it comes to skinning knifes. I haven't one that hunts that doesn't have a knife of this style.

 

Small and practical but you will need to make a scabbard.

https://www.butchersequipment.co.uk/f-dick-5-lamb-skinning-knife

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http://www.yorkguns.com/outdoor-edge-pocket-lite-knife-wooden-handle

 

I was looking for the Boker I bought before Christmas but can't find it. This one looks ok.

The Boker would have been quite good, i say quite as i'd prefer a sheath type arrangement. But the knife looks nice. How good is the edge? Does it dull easy?

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Thanks folks, the Mora range look like what i'm after. The Mora Eldris looks nice, the one i think i may go for, bearing a slightly bigger blade may be the Mora Kansbol. All i need to do now, is search for a place i can get one, as it seems few suppliers are willing to ship....

Does anyone use a Mora? I'm trying to find out how good the steel is, like carbon content. Not that i know lots about how much carbon it should have to help keep the edge from dulling.

I will need to learn how to sharpen one, as i was terrible at getting a good edge on a decent chisel.... :blush:

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Mora knives come razor sharp but do lose the edge fairly easily. If I'm skinning a couple of roe or muntjac I'll need to sharpen once or twice through the process. The good thing is that with a decent portable sharpener you can get the edge back very quickly. Excellent value really the whole range. I find the Roeing knife (short blade with steel ball on the end) great for cutting up the inside of the legs without damaging the meat, then use the skinning knife to peel away especially on muntjac.

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Mora knives come razor sharp but do lose the edge fairly easily. If I'm skinning a couple of roe or muntjac I'll need to sharpen once or twice through the process. The good thing is that with a decent portable sharpener you can get the edge back very quickly. Excellent value really the whole range. I find the Roeing knife (short blade with steel ball on the end) great for cutting up the inside of the legs without damaging the meat, then use the skinning knife to peel away especially on muntjac.

Thanks Jimmy. Out of interest, what harpening tool do you use? And do you rate the ones that you just drag the knife blade through?

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You can buy the fine diamond coated sharperners that fit in your pocket. A few wipes with those will restore the fine edge if done at the right angle. The ones you drag the blade through (like the Blade techs) do work but put a rough edge (fine for skinning) on the blade and should not be used on any blade that you value. I use one for an old carbon steel Mora which has seen better days but just use a fine steel and give the blades of my newer Moras a wipe on that followed by a strop on the back of a leather belt now and again.

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Get a Mora and chop the blade to what you want (length/shape).

It will be a good learning exercise for sharpening and if worse comes to worse then bin it and start again. I personally prefer a more filleting knife point for skinning so I change most of my Mora's to suit my personal preference.

 

For £30 you should get three.

 

Arguably you can better steel but NOT for the same price point!

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A post somewhere on the internet Chaz directed me to the Mora 2000 as a better option.

A person had xrayed a few knives out of curiosity and these showed the longest tang. I have a couple and they are good although not the best steel but then the better one cost x4 the price.

 

Recommended.

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A post somewhere on the internet Chaz directed me to the Mora 2000 as a better option.

A person had xrayed a few knives out of curiosity and these showed the longest tang. I have a couple and they are good although not the best steel but then the better one cost x4 the price.

 

Recommended.

Cheers Eldon. I had heard good things about the Mora 2000, hence it coming up in a choice.

Thanks

Chaz

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If you want cheap yet quite good blade - I have two MoraKniv "companion" models available.

 

Only £10 each plus postage. Not bad for a brand new knife.

 

Surprisingly good knife at this price point - I use one myself.

 

Olive green and black non slip handle ( rubberised ) and olive green polymer sheath with quick release belt attachment.

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I've just bought a Mora Eldris, with free delivery from Bush Craft not far from my place. Just for skinning rabbits.

If they're any good, i may get the Mora 2000, or Mora Kansbol. I'll see how i go....

Thanks for all the help folks.

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Well, I went ahead and bought my first Mora. I didn't go ahead and buy both the short and the longer bladed item, just in case i didn't like them. As I mainly need one at this moment for rabbits and squirrels, i chose the Mora Eldris, with the short, but very sharp blade. I've not had chance to use it yet, but hopefully will do at the weekend...

I am a little puzzled about the blade though. I was told, and watched many videos prior to buying, about the sharpening method used on the Mora knives. Mainly, the fact that sharpening them, is known as the 'Scandi Grind'. In short, the only way i can describe it, is as follows. Around half the depth of the knife is flat. Then the other half, or depending on which model you have, a little more, or a little less, it then tapers down into the final finished edge. Commonly known as the 'Scand Grind'.

Or putting it another way, the final 3-4mm of the blade are not chamfered/stoned/sharped in again to the finished edge, putting 2 angles in the blade. As explained, if this were done, it would make the edge brittle. But as it turned out, that's exactly what has happened to my knife.

I bought it from a reputable 'outdoors' type shop, so it's no chinese crap copy.

Anyhow, i'll see how it goes, when i've bagged a few rabbits and squirrels....

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Many Moras I've noticed come with a micro-bevel, so don't seem to be a true Scandi grind. I just re-sharpen mine on Japanese water stones when necessary and sharpen to the visible main side bevels (ie Scandi-style) ignoring the micro-bevels. A micro-bevel helps keep a more durable edge to prevent the fine edge from rolling over or chipping too easily but if you don't have a sharpening system with a guide, achieving a true, even micro-bevel is next to impossible unless very skilled.

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Many Moras I've noticed come with a micro-bevel, so don't seem to be a true Scandi grind. I just re-sharpen mine on Japanese water stones when necessary and sharpen to the visible main side bevels (ie Scandi-style) ignoring the micro-bevels. A micro-bevel helps keep a more durable edge to prevent the fine edge from rolling over or chipping too easily but if you don't have a sharpening system with a guide, achieving a true, even micro-bevel is next to impossible unless very skilled.

I've always been crap at sharpening chisels, let alone a knife blade!.....

Going on the YT videos, it states to 'strop' the blade on the rough side of leather, after every time the knife is used. Rather than really dull the blade, and take a lot more work to sharpen it.

In truth, i have no experience in sharpening any knife to a real sharp edge. So i'm inclined to make a wooden 'paddle' and glue the leather strop to it, and give it a go. However, given the choice, i'd rather take the easy route and buy a sharpening tool, that's as good as a leather strop. If that is possible??

I'd be very interested in a quick method that will give me a razor finish. If that is possible??

Any advice would be appreciated.

Thanks.

Chaz.

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I've always been crap at sharpening chisels, let alone a knife blade!.....

Going on the YT videos, it states to 'strop' the blade on the rough side of leather, after every time the knife is used. Rather than really dull the blade, and take a lot more work to sharpen it.

In truth, i have no experience in sharpening any knife to a real sharp edge. So i'm inclined to make a wooden 'paddle' and glue the leather strop to it, and give it a go. However, given the choice, i'd rather take the easy route and buy a sharpening tool, that's as good as a leather strop. If that is possible??

I'd be very interested in a quick method that will give me a razor finish. If that is possible??

Any advice would be appreciated.

Thanks.

Chaz.

 

 

You might be better advised just to buy something like the Lansky knife sharpening system. With full instructions, it includes guides so that anyone can do a great job sharpening a knife. The purpose of the leather strop isn't to sharpen a blade, but to take the wavy edge off and restore the straight edge of the finest point of the blade profile. Whenever you use a knife, it starts to dull the edge on very fine (especially Scandi type grinds) by putting a series of folds on the edge at an almost microscopic level. Stropping restores the polish and edge.

 

I have seen this done using the top edge of a partially wound down car window, where nothing more than the weight of the knife itself is applied across the edge which is drawn across the window edge. Never tried that one myself. Value my car and knife too much to have any accidents!

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You might be better advised just to buy something like the Lansky knife sharpening system. With full instructions, it includes guides so that anyone can do a great job sharpening a knife. The purpose of the leather strop isn't to sharpen a blade, but to take the wavy edge off and restore the straight edge of the finest point of the blade profile. Whenever you use a knife, it starts to dull the edge on very fine (especially Scandi type grinds) by putting a series of folds on the edge at an almost microscopic level. Stropping restores the polish and edge.

 

I have seen this done using the top edge of a partially wound down car window, where nothing more than the weight of the knife itself is applied across the edge which is drawn across the window edge. Never tried that one myself. Value my car and knife too much to have any accidents!

Sorry for the late reply. Thanks for the advice. I'll have a mooch at the Lansky knife sharpening system.

Chaz

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