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Having a go at putting together steel targets....


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I am sure a few people will have gone down this path. Had a thought towards putting together a few steel targets. Fortunate enough to have access to enough safe and practical land to try them out. Have already pulled a few single stand targets into shape and will be testing them soon. The most simple and basic idea to face up to the challenge - has been a standard over frame with stamping-in posts. The shackle/plate option holds up well but may need some end stops adding either side of the shackles to stop the plate jumping sideways. Chains could also be added. The 8x8 inch manganese steel plate has held up so far - against .308/.243/.22-250 and .223. Showing minimal indentations (over a gentle start at 200-450 yards) on softpoints and ballistic tips etc. Bit of cheap spray paint and they get back up to speed. Looking for any more design pointers and advice from anyone else who may have done the same thing. Thanks in advance. Sorry for the poor pic quality. Had to down size the image a bit.

post-14443-0-92763000-1460819401.jpeg

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Having had a a couple of goes at shooting at these and similar targets I have to say they are very good. An inexpensive and effective way of developing those long range shooting skills which can, if you have suitable land be left in situ. All thats needed is some spray paint and plenty of rounds. I like to see the round strike and then after a time lag hear it.

bryn

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+1 to bryns comments.They would hold up well, we have similar at a place where I shoot and they do very well. The key is the quality o the steel but you seem to have picked a good type from what you have said. The targets can also be made smaller or re-placed with smaller to make the shoot more challenging. We have just done this and some of the much smaller plates are causing some consternation and having to make us read the wind that little bit better!!! Enjoy.

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Good point. I have some smaller frames to get organised with 6x6" or 4x4" plates. Obviously each size plate goes with each frame. We proved that they can be carted into position over a moor (or retrieved) whilst also shouldering Aim bags, range bags and brew kit! They had to be compact enough to throw into the truck and break down to carry. Simple design ideas there. Think this type of thing can be more modular though. Appreciate if the land allowed it, that you could have a frame left in place (wood or bar) along with the plates, and then just need to carry a spray can wth you after that. The steel used is the biggest cost unless you want to bash low quality plates, even with less enthusiastic calibres.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Try to pick up some thick conveyor rubber and use this as the connection between plate & frame , it puts less shock into the connectors and seem to last longer , also very hard to shoot the straps clean thru .

 

Holes in the plate are better than welding attachment points onto the plate , as the shock usually breaks the weld quite quickly .

 

And yes hardened plates .

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Try to pick up some thick conveyor rubber and use this as the connection between plate & frame , it puts less shock into the connectors and seem to last longer , also very hard to shoot the straps clean thru .

 

Holes in the plate are better than welding attachment points onto the plate , as the shock usually breaks the weld quite quickly .

 

And yes hardened plates .

 

Snap. :)

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