Brillo Posted March 31, 2015 Report Share Posted March 31, 2015 I'm going to neck turn some Lapua .284 cases and anneal them (I've shot them 5 or 6 times). Should I neck turn and resize first and then anneal or anneal and then neck size? Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jcampbellsmith Posted March 31, 2015 Report Share Posted March 31, 2015 Not sure. Anneal, resize, trim, deburr, then neck turn would be my pick. Regards JCS Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phaedra1106uk Posted March 31, 2015 Report Share Posted March 31, 2015 I'd go with the above, anneal first so the brass is easier to work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1967spud Posted March 31, 2015 Report Share Posted March 31, 2015 Anneal > trim >expand up > neck turn > resize thats the way Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
triggersqueezer Posted March 31, 2015 Report Share Posted March 31, 2015 i allways thought neck turning fired cases was a bad idea ? the only time i did it because my bushing dies only size half way down the neck ( bushing not floating)i ended up with a thin part of the neck on the half closest the shoulder? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gunner Posted March 31, 2015 Report Share Posted March 31, 2015 i allways thought neck turning fired cases was a bad idea ? the only time i did it because my bushing dies only size half way down the neck ( bushing not floating)i ended up with a thin part of the neck on the half closest the shoulder? Maybe run em thru a std FL die if possible then expand / turn etc ? Iv got the same problem with my 20p brass , i should of turned before its first firing . atb . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Gun Pimp Posted March 31, 2015 Report Share Posted March 31, 2015 If you've shot them without the need to neck-turn, what's the point of neck-turning? The whole point of neck-turning is to reduce the case to chamber-neck clearance but to accomplish this, you need a tight-neck chamber. OK - if your brass is poor quality, a skim of the necks may be beneficial but not with Lapua or other good quality brass. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brillo Posted March 31, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 31, 2015 If you've shot them without the need to neck-turn, what's the point of neck-turning? The whole point of neck-turning is to reduce the case to chamber-neck clearance but to accomplish this, you need a tight-neck chamber. OK - if your brass is poor quality, a skim of the necks may be beneficial but not with Lapua or other good quality brass. I am reliably informed that this will give consistent neck tension. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Gun Pimp Posted March 31, 2015 Report Share Posted March 31, 2015 By whom? Any marginal accuracy gain from more consistent neck tension will be outweighed by having more 'slop' in the chamber neck fit. Don't get too wound up about neck tension - it only really plays a part when you are stuffing bullets into the rifling. Personally, I don't do that for F Class - a 'cease fire' command can seriously spoil your day if you pull a bullets and fill the action with powder! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveT Posted April 1, 2015 Report Share Posted April 1, 2015 I have never found Lapua cases (multiple calibres) to be out by more then half a thou when measured around 4 points of the circumference...neck turning is a ball-ache so don't do it unless your brass is way off. I AM sold on the idea of annealing though and whilst I agree Gun Pimps comments above I do believe that consistent neck tension can only be a good thing (can't do any harm at least!) ......hopefully annealing keeps it that way for the life of the brass vs gradual work hardening of the neck which I understand can change the 'spring' in the brass and so affect your bushings neck tension results. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brillo Posted April 1, 2015 Author Report Share Posted April 1, 2015 I use only Lapua brass in my .284 and some of them feel 'slacker' than others when I seat the bullets. From what I've read on this forum, and from those who do neck turn, neck turning gives consistent neck tension and the logic is that varying neck tension can cause poor vertical grouping which will noticeable at long distances. I suppose what I should do is put the slack neck cases to one side and discard them after shooting them or just batch them for fouling shots only. I must admit I'm leaning toward Vince's view as, like Dave T, I also find neck turning a bit of a balls-ache. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pgs Posted April 1, 2015 Report Share Posted April 1, 2015 Annealing will give you uniform neck tension Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Gun Pimp Posted April 1, 2015 Report Share Posted April 1, 2015 If you are not going 'full benchrest' the easiest way to produce consistent ammo is by up-sizing the necks with a mandrel. Remove the expander-ball from your full-length sizing die, run all your brass through the die then up-size the necks from the INSIDE using a mandrel - this kind of does away with the slightly inconsistent neck issue and should produce more consistent neck-tension. Expander mandrels and holders from Sinclair - or Spud and are available as 'standard' or 'oversize' giving you the option to increase/reduce neck-tension. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
garyw Posted April 1, 2015 Report Share Posted April 1, 2015 Brillo-i have the same problem with my .284 brass- Lapua- i took Vinces advice and removed the expander ball from my fl die i then run them up with a 7mm k+m neck mandrel with a touch of lube .i have 7 cases out of 50 that i can feel the differance to seat bullets so marked them with a sharpie and use them for foulers/sighters .the brass is due for re-annealing soon. Spud has K+m products in stock . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
triggersqueezer Posted April 1, 2015 Report Share Posted April 1, 2015 if a fired case is opened say two tho ,why expand first? only if your cases have been thrown about/ dented can i see the point. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveT Posted April 1, 2015 Report Share Posted April 1, 2015 Mandrels are reputed to be better at producing right neck tension along with better concentricity than dragging an expander ball up through them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1967spud Posted April 1, 2015 Report Share Posted April 1, 2015 if in the km version you need to expand to get it to fit over the trmmer pilot Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
triggersqueezer Posted April 1, 2015 Report Share Posted April 1, 2015 Mandrels are reputed to be better at producing right neck tension along with better concentricity than dragging an expander ball up through them. yeh i'm not expanding with a ball or mandrel.don't need to expand to trim in the l e wilson. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brillo Posted April 2, 2015 Author Report Share Posted April 2, 2015 If you are not going 'full benchrest' the easiest way to produce consistent ammo is by up-sizing the necks with a mandrel. Remove the expander-ball from your full-length sizing die, run all your brass through the die then up-size the necks from the INSIDE using a mandrel - this kind of does away with the slightly inconsistent neck issue and should produce more consistent neck-tension. Expander mandrels and holders from Sinclair - or Spud and are available as 'standard' or 'oversize' giving you the option to increase/reduce neck-tension. Many thanks Vince. That's worth knowing. I'll have chat with Spud. Mark Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1967spud Posted April 2, 2015 Report Share Posted April 2, 2015 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
garyw Posted April 2, 2015 Report Share Posted April 2, 2015 if a fired case is opened say two tho ,why expand first? only if your cases have been thrown about/ dented can i see the point. i use the expander because my fl die gives me a lot of neck tension the expander gets them to where i want them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big Al Posted October 2, 2015 Report Share Posted October 2, 2015 Many thanks Vince. That's worth knowing. I'll have chat with Spud. Mark How did you get on with this problem Brillo, Im interested to hear which way you went and if the you got the results you wanted? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J0N Posted October 2, 2015 Report Share Posted October 2, 2015 Mark - If you want to pop over mine after the range some time and run the brass through my Annealeez then let me know, happy to do that if its of help. You've helped me out enough, would be nice to repay the favour:) Cheers Jon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brillo Posted October 6, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 6, 2015 Hi Jon, Only now spotted this post. Thanks for the offer. I'll let you know when I'm next planning a trip to SS. Cheers Mark Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J0N Posted October 9, 2015 Report Share Posted October 9, 2015 Great speak soon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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