fizzbangwhallop Posted September 29, 2014 Report Share Posted September 29, 2014 Just posted this over on the nighvisionforumuk but thought I'd add it here as there's several DP owners on here too. Bought one of the 18650 Battery Packs the other week and, despite Carl checking first, I was convinced I had enough room to cycle the bolt on my Tikka 595 .17Rem. Doh! It doesn't if the pack is mounted on the fitted side rail. Worked through my possible options on Saturday and thought my best solution would be to remove the fixed side rail and find a longer rail to take the battery pack forward...but I discovered the rail is glued as well as screwed. ( Bit like me at that point really!) So today, having picked Carl's brains on the options, I had a dig through the useful bits, bought but never used, drawer and found a couple of those picatinny rail ring mounts including one with a 25mm spacer. Like these but with a spacer, must've been from fleabay: http://ant-supplies.co.uk/Pages/ScopeTubeAccessoryRails.aspx Result....... move the T20 as far back as possible in it's mount, grind down the ring mount/spacer enough to allow the torch tail-cap to screw on far enough to make connection and Bob's your neighbours friend's aunty twice removed. And it's not a lot higher than being on the side rail. 's me, Fizz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pork chop Posted September 29, 2014 Report Share Posted September 29, 2014 sweet,just thinking could you mount it on the left to give a smaller profile or would it get in the way of the control pad Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fizzbangwhallop Posted September 29, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 29, 2014 sweet,just thinking could you mount it on the left to give a smaller profile or would it get in the way of the control pad Could do as I only really switch from white to black on the reticle, I tend not to touch any of the settings in use... never found the need to. The pack would have to come back a slot to let me get at the focus ring though. The torch mount is already offset to the right to allow for that...and dropping the battery off the torch tube keeps the weight a bit lower. If I could get hold of another of the rubber pic rail mounts on the battery pack I'd stick it on the mini DVR, so mounting that instead of the battery pack would be a piece of percy too. Fizz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pork chop Posted September 29, 2014 Report Share Posted September 29, 2014 sounds like you got it sorted.is that a doubler lens on the t20 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fizzbangwhallop Posted September 29, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 29, 2014 sounds like you got it sorted.is that a doubler lens on the t20 Sort of......... it's a SunnRanger, as discovered by Sunndog aka Adam over on the NVforum, actually a Yukon Ranger 1.7x lens which gives you a focused die size at 8m a quarter the size of a NM800. When mounted on the DP10x and just backed off focus it just about fills the field of view. Brighter on a single battery 'cos it's more focused also helped by the single battery drivers kicking out a bit more power than the 2 batt drivers. I just cut the torch bezel back to the threads and screwed the Ranger lens on. Fizz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fizzbangwhallop Posted September 29, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 29, 2014 Just been having another play........ Moved the additional rail round to the left.....stuck the battpack on that and put a standard T20 back on the fixed rail ('cos I didn't want to disturb the mount round on the SunnRanger). The head of the SR is already 54mm so still plenty of room for a new T20/50 with this offset mount. ...........but mounting the battpack on the left makes the whole unit look bulkier and wider than it needs be so I think I'll just stick to what I had earlier for the time being. I did try turning the additional rail round and fixing it at angle over on the right so the battpack was well forward...the SR torchhead cleared it but it also mean't I was restricting access to the ejection port in the action..... be fine on a left hooker. Looking at the pic above, mounting the torch with the extra ring rail on the rh side means the torch would sit lower than when it's mounted on top........ guess I couldn't get either a battpack or the DVR to clear the bolt knob. Hey ho. Fizz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
happyhunter Posted September 29, 2014 Report Share Posted September 29, 2014 Fizz, how much work/cost is there in making a "sunnranger" Regards Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fizzbangwhallop Posted September 29, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 29, 2014 A T20 in with whatever LED you have in it, a Yukon Ranger lens which I think was around £70 from Amazon, a hacksaw/file, or a lathe if you're posh. Just unscrew the lens ring inside the bezel with a pair of long nose pliers, unscrew the head back over the body, cut the head back, screw the head back on over the body, screw on the new lens.. it's the same thread. I screwed the Ranger head on as far as I could and just use the quick adjust T20 head for focus. The only downside is that some of these T20 QA threads are a bit sloppy and with it side-mounted I had to shim the torch within the mount with a couple of bits of tape to get it central so if you do have access to a lathe then I think just cutting an extra groove for a fine O ring will firm it up nicely. Lighter, simpler and more compact than one of those infernal adjustable mounts. An alternative would be to tape the T20 head and rely on the Ranger's own focusing.... mine is quite stiff in itself so I just use the T20 head, I've got a tiewrap on the other torch head which just gives you something to use a finger against to adjust it. I think I posted pics of the die size comparison on here recently but if you do a search on sunnranger on the nvforumuk there's few on there... look at the ones with the most pages. Cheers Fizz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
happyhunter Posted September 29, 2014 Report Share Posted September 29, 2014 Cheers Fizz, I've completely moved over to the dark side now. The thermal is a suberb bit of kit, think I might up grade to a dronepro also... Cheers, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fizzbangwhallop Posted September 29, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 29, 2014 Good stuff Simon.........this thread is doing pretty well over there...... http://nightvisionforumuk.com/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=8885&start=0 Fizz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dac9976 Posted October 25, 2014 Report Share Posted October 25, 2014 Hi all Thinking of buying a Drone pro next month, any recommendations, x5 or x10? Is the added battery pack a must?? Cheers Danny. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fizzbangwhallop Posted October 25, 2014 Author Report Share Posted October 25, 2014 Hi all Thinking of buying a Drone pro next month, any recommendations, x5 or x10? Is the added battery pack a must?? Cheers Danny. Deffo the 10x Danny...... you could always unscrew the doubler to give yourself 5x. I've not tried seeing if the POI changes between them. As for the battery pack...... buying decent quality batteries such as panasonics etc, will give you a decent runtime if you only turn the 'scope on to take the shot. It's definitely not good practice to spot with a 'scope mounted on a rifle so I've always used a separate NV spotter and now use an HD38S thermal (Brilliant bit of kit that!). The battery pack will extend runtime to several hours but adds a bit of weight and bulk to the unit, I did buy an 18650 pack but now just rely on the internal CR123's. You mustn't use rechargeable CR123's directly in the Drone as they put out a higher voltage than the normal photo lithiums 3v x 2 and will bugger the Drone's electronics. The 18650 pack has built in electrickery to limit the o/p to the required 6v. I bought a couple of 10pack Panasonic CR123's from Amazon and you can buy an awful lot of batteries for the price of the battery pack. I originally bought some 7dayshop 123's but spent more time changing the batteries than looking through the 'scope.... always just at the wrong moment. The other thing to consider is whether you intend to run a DVR on the Drone.... there's a video out/power in adaptor lead included with the DP to connect to the single socket on the housing but the Battery Pack has no video out connection on it's plug..........although Carl may be able to address this if asked. 's me Cheers Fizz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dac9976 Posted October 26, 2014 Report Share Posted October 26, 2014 Deffo the 10x Danny...... you could always unscrew the doubler to give yourself 5x. I've not tried seeing if the POI changes between them. As for the battery pack...... buying decent quality batteries such as panasonics etc, will give you a decent runtime if you only turn the 'scope on to take the shot. It's definitely not good practice to spot with a 'scope mounted on a rifle so I've always used a separate NV spotter and now use an HD38S thermal (Brilliant bit of kit that!). The battery pack will extend runtime to several hours but adds a bit of weight and bulk to the unit, I did buy an 18650 pack but now just rely on the internal CR123's. You mustn't use rechargeable CR123's directly in the Drone as they put out a higher voltage than the normal photo lithiums 3v x 2 and will bugger the Drone's electronics. The 18650 pack has built in electrickery to limit the o/p to the required 6v. I bought a couple of 10pack Panasonic CR123's from Amazon and you can buy an awful lot of batteries for the price of the battery pack. I originally bought some 7dayshop 123's but spent more time changing the batteries than looking through the 'scope.... always just at the wrong moment. The other thing to consider is whether you intend to run a DVR on the Drone.... there's a video out/power in adaptor lead included with the DP to connect to the single socket on the housing but the Battery Pack has no video out connection on it's plug..........although Carl may be able to address this if asked. 's me Cheers Fizz Thanks Fizz, sound advice:) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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