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  2. My DIY annealing machine!

    hope ones mine
  3. That looks like a real longrange tackdriver
  4. Hi , 

    if you still want a joypod give Brian fox a call he is supposed to be get a few next week.

  5. What four rifle calibres - factory ammo

    .22LR rabbits & Fox .204 Fox and 500yd Varminting .308 Deer ,Boar, Badger,Plains Game and target - cheap ammo available everywhere. .444 Woodland Deer, Boar, Rhinos, Hippos and Elephants
  6. Bump with a price drop to £525 plus £13 RMSD.
  7. My DIY annealing machine!

    And mine. 😊
  8. What four rifle calibres - factory ammo

    .22 " LR - for fun and small game 6.5x55mm Scandisqueagian - target shooting to 1000 mards and hunting almost all European game, & also poppin' the buttons off farmer Giles' waistcoat 9.3x74mm - boar and Vauxhall Vectras .458 SOCOM - nefarious activities....
  9. We're contemplating a .458 SOCOM rifle and wondered if anyone here has experience of this calibre and, if so, what are your thoughts on it for: 1. Subsonic performance (we already use a variety of subsonic loadings so appreciate it will have trajectory like a banana) 2. Supersonic, i.e. high power loads It will be used at ranges up to 300 mards for semi serious plinking / target shooting and maybe some occasional hunting where regulations permit. If we choose to go ahead and acquire such a rifle, we're in two minds as to whether we should go for a 'traditional' bolt action rifle or an AR type platform. Our instinctive feeling is to go for a traditional style rifle as we prefer them to 'tacticool' black rifles though, that said, some of the awesome AR style rifles produced by Baldie and Bradders do rather appeal and we know they'll shoot awesomely accurately - we've seen at first paw that those chappies don't make anything less than 'wow!' What would you suggest, and why ?
  10. My DIY annealing machine!

    I'd like to think one of these might be mine, Lubo..... Cheers. Paul
  11. Mausingfield 6.5x47

    Yes, its a rather big scope Terry but it had been bought in advance in readiness for a future new rifle build. At 17lb it was never going to be a woodland stalker that for sure. Most of the time customers know what they want and as you say, often its camo. This may also have something to do with the fact that McMillan stocks are a popular product and Jacksons rarely have plain colours so I certainly do my fair share of camo whether I want to or not. I also think if people without inspiration see something they like its easy for them to say build me one like that one and the camo army grows and grows. The chap who owns this rifle asked me to build something that was a little different from the crowd using high quality parts throughout. It was nice to have a bit of a free reign although each component choice was discussed and agreed before it was ordered. I think its different, quite understated but obviously quality to those who know - to that end he got what he wanted.
  12. Hi r-c jan? Im very close to buying one from you  , how do i pay you ? Thanks tim.

  13. My DIY annealing machine!

    Machines that went out my work shop for the past week...
  14. Hi, I’m selling my MDT HS3 chassis and Skeleton butt plus metal MDT Mag. Its in Black and superb condition as it’s nearly new. It’s for a Remington Long action. Bargain for £325 posted!
  15. Mausingfield 6.5x47

    Alan, Rifle looks nice and seems to shoot - but *ugger me could your client not find a bigger scope Also good to 'not' see a camo'ed rifle T
  16. I think your last paragraph is absolutely correct - confidence in your handloads is what matters. My most accurate rifle is my 6PPC comp. gun. I start the season with 15 new cases. They will be fired six times at every match. In a season of competition plus a bit of testing that's about 50 firings. Do I clean 'em? No - just the outside of the neck. Are they shooting as well at the end of the season - you bet. I'm confident my method works. However, it can't do any harm to return the cases to 'as new' condition by US cleaning - and annealing and, if it boosts your confidence, then great - you'll probably shoot better. As I now have an AMP annealer, I'm going to try annealing after every match next year. I'm already annealing for F Class etc. I do have an ultrasonic cleaner but I've only used it once.
  17. What four rifle calibres - factory ammo

    Which 4 (better which 4 categories) has to reflecy yout quarry(and target comps even)-if you shoot large plains game,and dangerousAfrican-that's two no compromise must haves :if you shoot lots of close in bunnies,and don't Safari-yu have diffferent options. There are also various legal issues worldwide (and different). OK,mine are one each from : !7rem/204/222/223. Class,for small quarry out to say 250,gimme distance for these. 243/6mm /6BR/maybe some 6.5s, for medium size up to smaller/medium deer quarry or a bit further distance for the small quarry. 308 or similar (3006/284 etc) for big UK quarry 4th....well,depending on useage etc,could be an expansion of any/overlap above-though the above three cover most pretty well....how about a 17/22rf where quarry is small,with very short ranges,and 'minimum disturbance'? Or even a general purpose target rifle-though one only, has to be a compromise (6BR;6.5)...12g shotgun maybe-but not if only as a (slug) rifle. I don't think wildcats would change much-of course there are some good ones within each 'category' but very few that change the parameters enough. All hypothetical,verging on 'in extremis,'of course,just camp fire chat for those Desert Island Disc type characters. gbal
  18. I have all three. A lyman tumbler with corn cob media , an RCBS wet tumbler with stainless steel pins and a large ultrasonic cleaner. I use sea green (maplin electronics), £30 for 5 litres. My personal method that works for me. 1. Decap with universal decapper 2. US clean <20 mins 3. Dry 4. Anneal if necessary 5. Lube & Resize 6. Trim if necassary 7. Tumble to remove lube / burs from trimming / shine 30 - 60 mins The wet tumbler is for decoration only. Many people will disagree, but for me, wet tumbling is too aggressive. Like using a wire brush or sand paper to clean your silverware. Yes it gets the crud off and leaves a freshly grit blasted shine. Whether you need to clean at all and how it affects accuracy? If you are trying to hit 12 steel gongs from 100yds and just want cheap ammo, then I wouldnt bother. Trying to nail the V at 1000yds where the smallest group is desireable in a competition where you are spending hundreds of pounds for travel and accomodation, then yes. Have I ever done a batch test comparison between clean and non cleaned myself?...No, but i trust all the effort the F ers have put in chasing the best groups and low ES/ED. For me, alot of my preparation is also psychological. I want to know that the round that i have up the spout, as im planning on nailing that V, is the best possible round that it can be, not some peace of junk that I slapped together. I want total confidence when I release that shot.
  19. Ralph,always best to write down the brass's reloading history. Eg Batch 2 (first loaded (date) and number of subsequent reloadings (eg 6) thenyou have a fair idea....time to ditch when some sign of ageing appears (the brass i mean)...it depends on the number ofreloads,how hot/not they were,the quality of the brass,and the care innprepping etc. Certainly any sign of vertical case neck cracks is a bin absolute,as is the potentuially disastrous horizontal line/bulgeabove the case web-som check with a bent wire inside-you can feel a bulge-bin immediately (case head separtion is very bad news,and imminent). In general you are right-the neck area is worked most,and is thinner probably. Keep the term 'crimp' for the extra. Proceedureoften allpied to pistol ammo,or to eg military bottle neck ammo subject to extra rough treatment.Most rifle cartridge reloaders don't crimp-though hunting bullets often have a crimp ring,and may be crimped (eg in semi autos etc).BUt yes,neck is slightly oversize when bullet leaves,and is Neck resized (FLtoo) to slightly less than bullet diameter,so thee issome bullet retentio...it varies (and bushings give some control over such neck tension for bullet retention). Max/hot loads will usually display primer pocket expansion-bin them- before any other sign of overworked brass-normal sub max loads much less likely to do so. No absolutes-count reloadings,keep a record, see what others with similar loads tend to say (only a very approx guide) and keep an eye on it-especially as your reloads mount up...annealing frequently will help to restore brass and give more reloads. One reason some quality brass (eg Lapua) finds favour is that it will tend to give more reloads (and may well recoup initial higher price). But it's a 'monitor'each time and check for signs,and bin them-if you keep batches the same,and so b labelled,when even one goes-you have a clear warning,the rest should be about as suspect. Like memory,and possible other functions,there are no absolutes,but generally wear and tear occur in only one direction -and in brass that's toward the bin-it'sa comsumable... :-) gbal
  20. Simples! Keep your brass together from new in ammo boxes such as the MTM 50s and mark on the label the load and number of times loaded. It is a basic safety as well as performance related issue. There are two primary reasons to scrap brass. With hot high-pressure loads, the primer pocket is usually the first to 'go' - ie the entire case-head and web expand and the primer pocket with them making caps a loose fit. Use a hand priming tool for the 'feel' and when primers seat with no apparent effort in the pocket, that brass goes in the bin. At the shoulder / neck end, work hardening first produces neck tension variations (another reason to batch and keep cases together so you're not mixing once-fired brass with those on their 10th reloading), then beyond that longitudinal neck splits. When the first one appears, all of those cases should go in the bin. How soon this happens, also the degree of work hardening in general is partly down to brass quality, partly the number of times fired, but also case-neck fit in the chamber (hence degree of expansion on firing) and sizing tools / methods. Standard dies work brass a huge amount; bushing sizers plus mandrel expanders a great deal less. Then there is the issue of (now affordable) home neck annealing that can extend brass life considerably - a huge subject in itself with lots of posts on this and other forums. A third, much less common cause of scrappage is getting incipient case separations. If you do, in 99% of the time, it is because the user has set the sizer die up incorrectly in the press and is inducing excess headspace through 'bumping' case shoulders back too much. If one appears in the box unless you know there was something different (ie bad) in the way that one case was sized, then again the whole lot should go in the bin.
  21. That brings me on to another question Assuming one losses count of the number of times a case has been used, and I probably will, being in my fifties, how does one tell when they are scrappers, or do you keep on using them until they start to split around the neck or where ever?. I would assume that the neck will be the weak point as it gets re-sized and crimped around the bullets.
  22. Sako 85 Long Range 300WM ?

    Thanks for that ,therefore it would probably be better to have a quality barrel fitted to a used Tikka or Sako and spend the change on glass.
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